Reflections: On Six Months Out of Africa

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We interrupt this regularly scheduled broadcast of food, running, and San Francisco adventure to spend some time reflecting. These two weeks hold a number of meaningful occasions for me, and since my passion is first and foremost to write, these posts may a little bit different than the normal fare. But if you choose to read them, I hope you enjoy.

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Today marks a pretty momentous day for me. It’s officially been six months since I got back to America after 27 months abroad. At this point, I’m officially supposed to be adjusted… right?

This blog started in Africa and Africa is an inextricable part of both me and P&P. Being so far away, a “Stranger in a Strange Land,” as it worse, changed me forever and was a big part of me starting this blog—a last-ditch effort in re-establishing connection with the “outside world” that I so often felt had forgotten me. I’ve been back now for half a year, six whole months, and life has changed drastically.

I’m living the life I dreamed about when I was in Africa. Not that the life I’m living is a dream or ideal life, but it has everything I missed so much when I was there. Friends. A social life. Things to do. Good food to eat. Things to buy. Cute clothes. Eligible men. Places I can go by myself at night. Personal space. Language I understand. Etc. We always what we can’t have, as so often in the last months I’ve found myself longing for the simplicity of Africa, the dirt and the sand and the sea and the sky, each stretching onward in a remarkable sense of infinity. Where life was simpler and worrying about what to cook for dinner was enough.

My life has changed a lot in between then and now, and I’ve been spending a lot of time, mostly subconsciously, thinking about what I sometimes internally refer to as The Great Divide. Africa. America. Two different lives. But not two different people. Rationalizing that has been hard. A few examples:

Africa: Too. Much. TIME.

America: OMGNOTENOUGHTIMEEVER.

Okay, I saw this one coming for sure. But it’s no less of a shock. In Africa, some nights I’d come home to my hut, made dinner, ate, watched a TV show on my laptop, and changed into jammies… all before 7:15. What now? Reading, journaling, more reading… sleeping… there were nights I went to bed at 7:45 because I just simply had nothing to do. Here, my to-do list grows every single day. Finding time for just the crucial things I find important—God, important relationships, cooking, blogging, working out—feels darn near impossible.


Africa: a cell phone with one-color screen that got reception half of the time.

America: an iPhone that rules my life and voicemails that terrify me.

This is probably the weirdest one: I came back from Africa intensely upset by voicemail. I recognize this is irrational. After years of not having reception quite often, much less voicemail, I grew used to the fact that communication happened on occasion, almost by accident. The idea that someone can leave me a message whenever they wanted and socially I HAD to respond to it freaked me out. I just didn’t listen to them. At one point I had 12. The breaking point was when a friend was in SF for a weekend—that I hadn’t seen in months—and she called me and told me. I thought I missed the message, but then I realized that like all the other ones, I just hadn’t listened to it. I can’t say I am perfect, but I listen to them more now. This speaks to something bigger, a bit of discomfort with the way that here we’re so connected, but in artificial ways.


Africa: No money and nothing to spend on.

America: no money and too much to spend it on.

In Africa I made $5 a day. In America I make over twenty times that and I worry about money about a million times more. Bills, monthly rent which is equivalent to more than five month’s salary in Africa, utilities, and all the good stuff… restaurants, $11 margaritas, fun distractions… too much to do, and too little money, in one of the most expensive cities ever. It was so much easier to just not have any money and to not care because I spent like $30 a week. Man.

Africa: not enough personal space!

America: too much personal space!

Let me explain this one. In Africa, one of the hardest things about life there was people never leaving you alone. Anywhere I went, people wanted to talk, or at least talk about me in front of me. No one ever let me listen to my iPod in peace. No one let me walk down the sidewalk in peace. I longed, literally LONGED with all my heart to blend in and simply not be bothered. Some people grew to love kids calling them “mulungo!” (white person), yelling at you whenever you walked by. I didn’t. I got used to it, but I never liked it. I simply wanted to blend in. but in America, I miss that. We keep to ourselves too much. Yesterday I asked someone what bus had just passed and they looked at me like I was a crazy person. So many places in the world, you can make friends on the street or on the bus and no one thinks you’re a creeper. Here, people are content to live in self-isolation, and I never thought I’d say this, but, I miss that about Africa.

Africa: freedom!

America: trapped.

I think this has been the hardest part of coming back. In Africa, I was free. Sure, I had a job and some responsibilities, but not that many. I had a lot of flexibility. I could take off for a long weekend, hitchhike 800 kilometers, spend a day on a beach somewhere with a cold soda for 25 cents, and not really have anything to care about. I didn’t have a to-do list coming home with me at the end of the day. I could travel to Swaziland, to the World Cup in South Africa, to Thailand. I went to eight countries last year, maybe 9? I don’t remember. I felt like I could do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted. There were no limits.

Here I don’t feel that way anymore, that sense of endless and limitless possibility. I look at my near future and instead of seeing world travel and adventure, I see a job and bills. That’s all I see anytime soon. I know that’s not fair—that this is real life and that real life demands certain sacrifices and the obtaining of a certain sense of balance—but I’ve been so far on the other end of the spectrum that real life feels like handcuffs. The idea of not leaving the country in 2011 (when I circumnavigated the globe in 2010!) feels too much to bear. I feel like some youthful irresponsibility has been forever lost. And my heart starts pounding when I wonder if I’ll ever get it back, or if this is really it. A former Volunteer told me “it all fades to a rosy hue…” and it does. I look back on Africa now longingly, missing the parts of life I’ll never get here, and forgetting all the times I wished I was anywhere else. That’s how life goes. It’s so hard to be content in the present.

If there’s anything this self-indulgent post makes me realize, it’s that I’m still adjusting. I’m six months back, and life simply won’t be the same, no matter how hard I try. The only thing I can do is to accept the differences and find ways to explore the joys of Africa in San Francisco, to mix the best of both worlds, to find that balance between my two lives. To find the moments where I feel free and unharnessed, that the world is wide open in front of me, and hang onto those moments. To approach my life with that same sense of wonder that I once approached the unknown. That will prove to be my key to happiness. That will be my ticket to finally once again feeling like I’m home.

If you’d like to read any of my posts about Africa, please check out my Peace Corps/Moz tab.

Have a good night everyone!

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  • The End of an Era

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    Hello, lovely readers,

    Thanks for the comments and support on my last post, oh-so long ago… or so it seems from where I’m sitting. The last two weeks have been an absolute blur and probably some of the most definitive of my (not-so-) young life. Attempting to transition out of one “chapter” in my life’s story and into the next has been exhilarating and exhausting, exciting and anxiety-inspiring, joyful and melancholy. But one reality remains:

    Mozambique is over.

    I might be back in the Moz sometime in the future–in fact, I expect to be. But that’s a big question mark, and I’ve been trying to live in the present moment as much as possible. And that’s been made easier by the total WHIRLWIND that the last weeks have been! We’ve attended Mozambican birthday parties…

    Hosted Mozambican colleagues over for a cultural exchange featuring us cooking them Mexican food (how American of us, right?) and then giving us the “sex talk” that the other women in their family give them as they come of age, to open our eyes to some of the crazy differences (Example advice given to many Mozambican women: “Buy the most expensive black tea in the market. Steep it in boiling water in a bucket. Sit in that bucket until the water gets cool. Your man will like this.” This advice may have ruined black tea for me forever.) Verdict on the Mexican food: They loved it, or at least they loved the taco seasoning that the meat was flavored with! Hooray for sodium. Bringing people together since 2010.

    And the week before we left, my awesome-party-planner roommate organized a despedida (farewell) party with our colleagues in our compound, which was a great opportunity to say goodbye to many of the people who have been a big part of my experience here over the last two years.

    My counterpart from work even came, right upon getting back from working in the field (far away in a rural village) all week! I’ll miss her.

    The next night was Halloween, and we headed to a party in town which ended up being pretty heroically lame, especially depressing after last year’s utter awesomeness and because people from outside of Vil came in for a good time. We tried, at least, and the company was nice regardless. My roommate and Camille and I went as Greek goddesses. I chose Aphrodite pretty much so I could wear about two pounds of a creepy black satin bedsheet purchased for two dollars in my market.

    Post-Halloween headaches were nursed the next day as five of us ventured out to the Ilha de Bazaruto, or Bazaruto Island, the largest and most populated of the islands in the archipelago of the same name. Two people had never been to the islands before and it was another amazing chance to snorkel two-mile reef and feel like you’re in Finding Nemo. There’s really no better way to describe it. We saw dolphins jumping around the boat on our way out, got a chance to hike the magnificent sand dune, saw stingrays and starfish and a ton of other creatures, and made the most of the day.

    Next time I make my way back to Mozambique I will hopefully have a paycheck, and I am definitely staying a night on the islands. If I can track down the $800 or so per night a few of the lodges charge… never going to happen. Accept it now.

    Last week was a blur of cleaning, packing, and goodbyes. Before I knew it, it was Saturday morning, the bags were packed, the house was bare and it was time to say tchau to the home I’d known for the last two years.

    Amidst goodbyes, tears, dog kisses, and hugs, my roommate and I caught the bus to Maputo, to close out our Peace Corps experience (Close of Service) and head out of Mozambique. We were lucky that several of our closest friends were in Maputo COSing with us, which made it a very communal and enjoyable process instead of the stress-fest I had expected.

    Maputo’s normal culinary delights–grocery shopping for imported products and eating at “nice” (it’s all relative) restaurants held very little excitement for us this time as we were all heading out to civilization, but we still had a great time, with multiple visits to Cafe Sol (the American-owned, real-coffee-serving Cafe that offers a rare luxury on the menu, bagels) and finally tried the pastel de guardanapo (napkin cake).

    Normally the Thai restaurants (specifically Xhova Inter-Thai) are my favorite, but those held little pull for me as a week and a half from now I will be in Thailand, but it was fun to discover only today that Spicy Thai has an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet, which a group of us lingered over for a solid two hours. Success.

    Another thing I discovered for the first time today: A RUNNING TRACK! SO CLOSE to the hotel I’ve stayed at TONS of times. Are. You. Serious. How did I not know about this?! I got to check my mile time and run some 200s and 400s and marvel at what a slowpoke I am. And to think I could’ve been marveling all year! Tragic.

    The majestic Polana Serena Hotel just finally finished its long rehabilitation and it was something I had to see before I left. We headed down for a drink and I was amazed at how pretty it was!

    Margaritas are my favorite cocktail and this is the only one I’ve had since the Atlanta airport the first week of January before I boarded my transatlantic flight… not worth the price, but still, a sign of things to come.

    The last few days have just been all about making the most of the last few hours with friends, good friends, friends with whom we have shared this incredible and CRAZY experience and for that we will always have a bond.

    In line with the “This Is The Last Week And We Should Do Absolutely Everything We Have Ever Wanted To” mentality, I had the most expensive dinner of the last two-plus years (hell, maybe even several years!) at a Brazilian place, but that’s another post.

    Emotions range. I think right now I am exhausted from all of the feelings and anxieties and excitements and all sorts of other things flooding my mind. It’s made me tired and stressed and I don’t know if I have really processed that this chapter is ending. I think that there’s going to be a lot in the future to reflect on but right now all I know is this: It has been wonderful, but it’s time to go. Many great experiences and stages of life have a shelf life: they’re good for a time, but then it’s time for something new. I have loved living in Mozambique, and I’m sure it will take me a long time to recognize all of the things that it has given me, and to realize how much I am going to miss about life here. I am sure in the future, perhaps not-so-distant, there will be novels to write about that. But right now, I’m such a mix of every possible feeling that they all sort of cancel each other out and leave me with only one discernible conviction:

    It’s been wonderful, but it’s time to let go.

    As a blogger and “blend” (blog friend), you’ll have to forgive me over the next month and a half. I hope to post at least once a week if not more often, but my internet access and time and ability to upload photos may be limited. I know I’ll have tons of time and internet once I am back stateside to update y’all, but over the next handful of weeks, you might not be hearing from me as much. Because I am leaving in about five hours to South Africa, where we will rent a car and head to Lesotho for pony-trekking, before flying to Cairo and then onto Thailand. I’ll be in seven countries in the next five weeks–suffice it to say, I might be busy.

    I have no idea where I’m REALLY going, or what I’m REALLY going to be doing. But that’s the beauty of it. I’m just GOING. And it is going to be awesome. Maybe I can say tomorrow as I cross that border, a chapter ends, a door closes… but another one opens… and I’m holding my head high and marching through it. Good-bye, Mozambique. Thanks for everything you have done for me. May we soon meet again.

    Until then, peace.

    Have you “started over” in any areas of your life recently? How’d you do it?

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  • Lesson Learned: I’m A Fighter.

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    So one random thing I used to wonder about was if, in a situation of mortal danger, I would go with “fight,” or “flight.” I am pretty competitive (fight) but also extremely non-confrontational (flight—get my bootay out of there). I didn’t really WANT to be in an altercation, but I was a little bit curious.

    A couple of nights ago, I got my chance to find out.

    It was a little after 7PM on a weeknight, and I was headed to a cool nearby backpackers, Zombie Cucumber, to meet some friends for a goodbye dinner. It was a goodbye of sorts, and our friend who also manages the backpackers, Sabrina, is an AMAZING cook and I was really looking forward to spending time with her and the other people who would be there. But I had forgotten my camera! No way did I want to not get pictures of A. my friends at our special evening together and B. her amazingly delicious food for my blog. I ran back to my house to get it and then set back off.

    I only had a few minutes to walk down my road, the marginal on the beach, to get there. It wasn’t far. I had my camera, but in my blazer pocket no one could see it, so I never thought I would be approached—that’s what happens to people with big purses who look like tourists. I speak Portuguese, I’ve lived here for two years! No problem. This is the kind of thinking that gets you in trouble…

    Just two minutes outside of my house I saw two Mozambican guys talking under a streetlight. They were tall, maybe around 20 years old, just the type of people I’m used to seeing on the road. I greeted them in a firm voice—“Boa noite”—as I walked by, and thought nothing of it. I heard a weird grunt behind me, strange…

    And then all of a sudden I had two arms grabbing me around the neck from behind, choking me. I tried to scream but no words could come out. He threw me to the ground, one hand choking me, jumped on me, yelling, “give me give me” while the other guy tried to help pin me down. Two against one. No one there to help me. Endless horrible possibilities entering my consciousness.

    Okay, this is actually happening.

    I get out a scream, not that anyone heard or would have come even if they had.

    Reality sets in.

    OH HELLLLL NO ARE YOU MESSING WITH ME.

    I started flailing and kicking and managed to pry dude #1’s arm off of my throat and kicked dude #2 somewhere around his head, and then tuck and rolled just in time to hit dude #1 with an elbow.

    This was much less badass than it sounds. Really it was me rolling around in the dirt trying to get away from (assumedly) two bored young men who thought I might have had money.

    But I don’t think they expected me to fight so after a little while (it felt like ages) I was able to jump up and they let me go. I pulled off my sandals and ran, gasping, trying to catch my breath, to the backpackers where my friends comforted me.

    What just happened?

    I was in shock, my veins were full of adrenaline, my throat hurt, but most of all, my head was spinning, my brain full of the what-ifs.

    This was a teaching moment for me.

    First of all: don’t let your guard down. I HATE this because I hate walking through life constantly looking over my shoulder. But things happen and I need to be careful and make sure my friends are doing the same.

    Second: I am STRONG. Sure, I’m not always happy with my body due to my intrinsic feminine insecurities but when I can fight off two dudes… I have nothing to worry about. (thought running through my mind as soon as my heart rate dropped: thank God I work out.)

    Third: Support in a crisis (or near-crisis) is NECESSARY. I am so glad I had people to talk to and comfort me after this happened. If I had tried to handle it alone I would have gone crazy.

    Fourth: women are targets. Every cell in my independent-feminist-woman body cries out at this. I AM POWERFUL! I AM MY OWN PERSON! I CAN DO WHATEVER I WANT, WHATEVER MEN CAN! Yes, but also no. it is a horrible and humbling reality to face but sometimes you will be targeted just for your sex. No, this isn’t fair, but I need to be more accepting of it and realistically assess risk in certain situations.

    Fourth: I am definitely, most DEFINITELY, a FIGHTER.

    Some delicious food and some gin & tonics later (I’m not a boozer and 99% of the time I think food and alcohol should NOT be used for comfort. This was not one of those times) I felt better. I am still a little in shock about the situation but am just so grateful that God was looking out for me.

     

    I don’t have any pictures of us because as you might imagine I looked a little beat, but the only reason I got into this situation was because I wanted pictures for the blog, so dammit, I’m posting pictures. I don’t care if they are ugly. Redemption!!! Those guys didn’t even get my camera.

     

    Camille: “take a picture of the drink!!!” Yes, I will. This was perhaps the best and most necessary cocktail I have ever had. Ever.

     

    I am just so grateful that things happened the way they did but also wanted to post this as a wake-up call, especially for people moving abroad or considering PC: be careful. This stuff can happen anywhere–in my Mozambican village or in our backyards in American suburbia, but still. Please look out for yourselves.

     

    Summary lesson: don’t walk alone at night. And take kickboxing classes.

     Cheers.

    Have you ever been in a scary situation where you felt threatened? How did you respond?

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  • I Run Because I Can

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    A whole week without a post!

     This doesn’t happen much, but I’m also really glad I started blogging in Africa, because I know 100% that no one dies if you don’t update your blog for awhile, people’s normal lives continue and no one really gives a crap if you’ve been “M.I.A.” (except maybe my mom… hi, mom.)

    [source]

     I’ve been thinking about running a lot lately. And how I’ve always had a love/hate relationship with running, but lately I’ve been viewing it as both a blessing and a curse. It’s a blessing because… well, ask anyone who runs. It’s a blessing because it allows your body to do what it’s meant to do, to run and move and fly, to feel strong and alive as the wind pummels you. It’s so simple—just put one foot in front of the other, and then repeat. But it’s also so hard, as anyone who’s trained for a race, worked through an injury, or just had to be alone in their own head on a long run can tell you. Some days are amazing, when you feel untouchable, tireless and strong. Other days you can barely get through a few minutes before longing for the end. It’s predictable yet unpredictable, relaxing and stressful, relaxing and energizing, all at the same time.

    Running has been a blessing for me in Africa because it has allowed me to rejoice in my body. Hundreds of hours in my bedroom doing workout DVDs can never compare to a run where I feel my legs pounding the ground, getting stronger, feel myself running just a little bit faster, take pride in being able to go just a little bit farther. It’s a blessing because it gives me confidence. Even if I am slogging at a snail’s pace, how dare I be unsatisfied with my body when it can carry me up large hills or through hours without stopping? It makes me feel strong and powerful. It’s also “me” time.

     [source]

     I do not run well with others.

     I really want to change this, because not only can running be a great time to socialize with like-minded friends and family, but it’s also great to push yourself during training with a buddy. But I suck at it. I think it’s insecurity, mostly, because I run really slow so running with someone else means most likely that I am A. going to be feeling like I want to die before the first mile is gone and B. that someone else is probably going to want to talk and since I’m already wheezing and groaning and feeling like my heart is about to pop out of my chest, I’d rather not make conversation, making me just a slow and silent running partner. But that’s neither here nor there. It has been a solo adventure for me, a date with my own mind and heart.

    Running is a time for me to think. Sometimes I escape to a far away place; other time I’m poring over current issues, emotions and feelings. But no matter what, after a run, I ALWAYS feel better. I feel in touch with nature, as I run “unplugged”—no running gear for me. While this is difficult at times (I have no idea if I have been running 9- or 12- minute miles for these whole two years…) it is good because I don’t want to be thinking about my mile splits or my pace or my aerobic intervals. I just want to RUN.

     [source]

    While running has been a blessing to me over my years in Africa, it has also been a curse. I claim to run to de-stress, but running here can, contradictorily, prove to be very stressful. Ask anyone who has tried to be a runner in an African village before.

    I am apparently the funniest and/or weirdest thing that anyone has ever seen. Even though they see me a couple of times a week.

    I run to escape the world, but that doesn’t happen here. EVERY (yes, every) time I run in my town at least one of the following things happens:

    1. A huge group of market vendors/children walking to school/construction men painting or building something/electricity guys installing power lines/people selling bread or bananas/group of women carrying fifty pounds of stuff on their heads stops whatever they are doing… in their tracks… to stare at me. Until I’m far past them.
    2. Said group starts hooting and hollering at me. This usually starts with one or two dudes and then builds to fever pitch before I can get past them.
    3. A group of children (or even adults) decides that I look really funny and starts intimidating me, in front of me, to make all their friends laugh. This is usually some version of the chicken dance, where the chicken lacks motor control, is somewhat physically disabled and incredibly drunk.
    4. Someone decides that they are faster than me and decides to run behind me chasing me… or run past, stop and wait for me to catch up, repeat process, while people point and laugh.
    5. Dogs decide that they want to accompany by snapping at my heels and jumping on my back.
    6. Children decide that they want to accompany me by grabbing at my feet and shorts. This is where I admit I have tried (unsuccessfully) to drop kick a child before.
    7. Cars, which will happily drive on the wrong side of the road if it means one less pothole prefer to drive so close to me (despite there being NO other traffic) that I’m pretty sure some of my arm hair singes off.
    8. Artisans try to stop me to sell me paintings, or vendors selling cell phone airtime jump in front of me. Yes, I am sweating and panting and breathing heavy and clearly all I want to do right now is buy cell phone credit/buy a hideous fake oil painting/give you money because I’m clearly really wealthy on my volunteer salary and have my wallet on me and I like to run around handing out my riches.

     Suffice it to say that sometimes running is not as relaxing and stress-relieving as it should be.

     [source]

     Some people fantasize about a beautiful beach to run along. I have that. I fantasize about running in peace. I’ve had a few amazing runs on the beach without another soul, but that just doesn’t happen in my own town.

     The other running “hardship” I have encountered is the utter destruction of my running shoes. Not only have I been running in them for two years, I’ve also been doing cross training workouts in them almost every day, and wore them hiking, exploring, and on several vacations. They are dead.

     [source]

     They are starting to fall apart, they offer no traction to the point where I can’t even do push ups in them anymore because my toes slip, my pinkie toes are about to bust out through the toebox, I get new blisters in new places after every short run, and I feel every pebble under my foot.

     It’s gotten to the point that I don’t know what’s worse: running in my shoes or not running at all. Running in my shoes is NOT helping. Everything hurts. Especially because I already have problems in my right knee, hip, and IT band, and am developing something in my left heel. I was diligently and responsibly adding mileage from March through August, working my way up to several 3-hour plus runs. But then my body screamed back: CHEGA! (“Enough” in Moz-speak). So I started over. Quietly. Trying to listen to my body. Because getting injured won’t help me in the marathon I hope to run.

     [source]

    If I stop running until I can get new shoes, I cancel out everything. I’ll get home just in time to start marathon training—and my knees and hips won’t let me. I won’t make it through the first week without an injury and so-long, marathon dreams.

     But my shoes, well, every run gets worse. Today I was at minute 35 of a one-hour slow jog and I wanted to quit. I felt the hit of each step on the balls of my feet. They were sore. My heel hurt. I was barely running. I just wanted to quit. I started doubting myself. Just two months ago I was on an 18-mile run, today I can’t even jog half an hour without wanting to die, and I kid myself that I’m going to run a MARATHON in the spring? How ridiculous and pathetic. I should just quit now.

     Then I saw something that changed everything. As I ran jogged limped towards home, I saw what I thought was a child approaching. As I neared, I realized it was a grown womanwith legs so deformed that they were shriveled up beneath her.

     She was inching her way down the road, to her unknown destination, on her hands.

     I slowed as I passed her. Our eyes met, and her expression contained no envy, no bitterness, just a quiet, resigned type of acceptance of her fate, that carried her onwards.

     I however, felt like I was hit by a truck. I sit around complaining about the men who holler at me and the kids who laugh and IF ONLY I had good shoes or IF ONLY the sand wasn’t so deep it wouldn’t hurt my knees like this and IF ONLY I was faster…

     The fact is, I AM BLESSED. Running is a privilege.

     My body may be slow, but it is strong. My shoes may be old, but they protect my feet. The sand may be deep, but the view is beautiful. And I CAN RUN.

     [source]

     As of today my reason for running, despite the frustrations I have experienced recently, has become only this:

     I run because I can.

     And from now on, THAT is going to be enough.

     Why do you run?

    Any advice on the shoes? Run in them or quit for a month or so?

     

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  • TIA: Home Improvement

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    We interrupt our regularly scheduled travel and foodie and wordy reflective posts to bring you the latest installment of T.I.A.: This Is Africa, to provide a peek into the trials and tribulations of African life. Enjoy, I don’t have too many of these left! :)

    Home repairs are never fun. They are costly, take a lot of time and energy, and inevitably inconvenience everyone in their wake. In Africa, it is the same. Times fifty. A light bulb burns out or a crappy switch breaks, and it takes months to fix it. Because someone has to talk to the electrician to go find out how much the part costs, and then go ask someone else for approval to buy the part, and then once approval is granted go to someone else to ask for the money, and then that person has to go ask someone else to approve the money, and then the money is approved, and someone else has to actually go cut the check but actually the account is empty at least for the month, and then that message has to get passed backwards through the chain, and before you know it you have been showering by candlelight or getting dressed by headlamp for two months… not that this has happened to me multiple times or anything.

    Lights are one thing. With electricity that is the opposite of consistent, being stuck in the dark for days is no foreign concept. But when it is raining inside, that is a whole other issue.

    I have mentioned that I live in a bamboo house with a thatched roof. Up until a few months ago, I was pretty impressed by the ability of our house to keep water out—in fact, the only place that leaked in the heavy cyclone-season rains was the bathroom, ironically the only room with a tin roof rather than reed. But that all changed. This year, it started (drumroll please….) RAINING IN MY ROOM. I documented this briefly as a pretty good workout excuse (wearing a raincoat inside counts), but it got worse.

    A couple of hours of rain could fill a bucket…

     

    Completely flood two-thirds of my room…

     

    Slowly creep out through the doorway…

    And into the kitchen!

    And this was far away from one of the more serious incidences. No pictures of those. I was too busy trying to stuff my camera and everything I cared about into Ziplocs while floating away down the surging river that emerged from my bedroom. Okay I am maybe exaggerating. But only a tiny bit.

    So, complaints were lodged, and finally, just after the rainy season ended (of course), some dudes arrived and ripped off the thatch of my roof to redo it. However, this led to years and years of dirt and rat poop falling from the false ceiling and positively coating ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING with turds and other nastiness. No joke. Lovely.

    I saw a little piece of light popping through the false ceiling and nudged my way up into the little nook above my room to see what my roof looked like. Or lack of such a roof.

    Yeah, that’s a nice hole. Contingency plan for rain much?!?!  Of course not.

    So for a couple of days, there were some guys chilling on the roof, weaving in new reed.

    Imagine my surprise when fresh from the shower, still clean, damp, and toweled, two guys jump onto my roof and start shaking down more turds and dirt. “COM LICENCA!!!” I yell. (Excuse me. As in “Excuse me, I am naked and clean here, it took a month and a half for you to even get here in the first place, so can you hold it with the poo shower for FIVE FREAKING MINUTES PLEASE?!?!”) Unsuccessful. Grab clothes, clutch towel, hightail it out of there.

    Well, the good report is that the roof has been finished. The good and bad news is that there has not been rain. Good because there has been no opportunity for flood, bad in that I have no idea if it actually is fixed. (The first tree-trimming procedure that was done to “mitigate the problem” took it from mere wet annoyance to Noah-style, ruining-all-of-my-possessions type of flood.) So, I’m not getting my hopes up. But I have new sympathy for all those Americans who lament having to “redo the roof.” I now feel your pain. May I recommend bamboo?

    Now, since the roof incident, we have had a variety of other problems of the home variety. Most recently, our sink in the bathroom stopped turning off. As in, it would just run and run… potentially draining our tank and leaving us all without any means to bathe, wash dishes/clothes, or hydrate. We informed the man responsible for our house and in true Mozambican fashion, weeks passed. We waited patiently, succeeding in turning off the faucet with an eight pound hand weight. It was really fun running back and forth to the bathroom while working out to switch the heavy weights with light ones depending on what I needed (the unused set would be on the sink).

    Then while eating breakfast one morning, we heard a crash. The weight had fallen off and… our problem just got bigger.

    Who needs a sink that shuts off when you have a sink with a HUGE HOLE in it?

    It doesn’t get any better than this, folks.

    Got any “home improvement” projects of your own?

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  • Gorongosa, Hoye!

    DSC00151

     To celebrate our two-year anniversary in Mozambique (October 2nd, 2010!) and our three-day weekend (Peace and Reconciliation Day!), Camille, Sarah and I headed north on an adventure that began in Chimoio in Manica province. I was lucky enough to have visited Chimoio once before, and I remembered it fondly, principally 24-hour (!!!) Café Chimoio…

    and their 10-meticais sweet bread (freaking amazing)…

    and the fact that you can get bananas for pennies (sixteen for 41 cents, anyone?)

    After a night filled with chatter and the best pizza in the country (that’s another post…), our friendly Volunteer hostess pilar-ed some homemade peanut butter for us and sent us on our way.

    Our destination for the weekend was the Parque Nacional da Gorongosa, or Gorongosa National Park, in central Mozambique at the southern end of the African Great Rift valley.

    We crossed provinces, drove over an awesome bridge and then finally reached our destination.

    Gorongosa used to be one of the most beautiful and densely populated game parks in all of Africa, with thousands of animals and many visitors every year. Tragically, decades of war in Mozambique, first the war of independence against the Portuguese followed by civil conflict, meant no park management, severe fighting in the area and poaching of animals to feed hungry mouths. The animal population was almost completely decimated.

    Despite the dark past, the future of Gorongosa is a bright one. The US nonprofit Carr Foundation is working with the government of Mozambique to rehabilitate the park over the next twenty years and they have already seen astounding successes with the reintroduction of animals and the management of the park’s fragile ecosystems. We were lucky enough to meet Greg Carr himself within fifteen minutes of arriving at the park, and he and his colleagues graciously let us pick their brains about the park and the work they’re doing there. It was really amazing and inspiring to see.

    We spent the first few hours driving ourselves around and searching for animals. We were not disappointed.

    This big floodplain was so crowded with animals, Camille dubbed it “the party.” And it was. Unlike Kruger, where I rarely saw different species comingling, there seemed to be a camaraderie between Gorongosa’s inhabitants, perhaps because the presence of main predators is still limited.

    I was really impressed with the Park’s approach to development: they are not only trying to develop the park in a sustainable manner, but also to create jobs for Mozambicans and to better the lives of surrounding community members, through building schools and health centures, to insure the long-term feasability of the park.

    This picture does not accurately depict how giant this lizard was.

    I have a weird obsession with guinea fowl, although they don’t seem to be the smartest of animals. When they saw our car behind them they decided to run away… down the road in front of them. At about 1 mph.

    The park was FULL of warthogs and we found them endlessly charming.

    One of the park staff showed us an award-winning National Geographic film called Africa’s Lost Eden. Documenting both the history and current life of the park in NG’s typical gorgeous fashion, the film was wonderful and I’d recommend checking it out to anyone who loves NG or Planet Earth.

    In addition to the wild pigs and varieties of antelope, we most often came in contact with baboons, such as this graceful one here.

    In the late afternoon, we got to go on a game drive, which was wonderful. It was fun going on a safari in Portuguese (and even more fun realizing that we understood it without problems!). We got to pause in the plain to take in the stunning savannah and watch the sun set.

    (I stole the last seven pictures from my roommate, Sarah Hedges. Thanks Sarah!)

    Our Gorongosa adventure didn’t end there. The next day, we headed out to a different area of the park to hike to what we were told was a beautiful waterfall.

    It was about an hour hike over sloping hills, and we were not disappointed with the amazing views along the way. I miss hiking! I feel like I got to do a lot of it back in LA, and it was great to get out this weekend.

    Nearby the waterfall, there was a small “nursery” where plants were being raised. All up the mountain, different rehabilitation projects were going on.

    Once we reached the waterfall, we were stunned by its beauty. What a tranquil, untouched place!

    (Note: water is freezing.)

    After immersing ourselves in the freezing waterfall, we warmed up on a sunny spot of rock, snacked and then headed back down the mountain.

    Fresh pineapple is the best type of refuel!

    I had an amazing time at Gorongosa and my only regret is not visiting it sooner. It is crazy what kind of beauty, or wonder of nature, can exist right under our noses and we’re not even aware of it. That was Gorongosa for me, but now that I have visited and learned about the park, I feel invested in its success and excited to see what happens over the next several years.

    It was also crazy to be nearly alone in this beautiful, wide-open place, as compared to many other “back to nature” spots in the States where you’re sharing your moment of serenity with sixteen buses’ worth of other people. There definitely is beauty and peace in nature, and while it might be a bit easier to find out here in uncharted Africa, it’s definitely worth seeking out wherever you are. Even nearby, you might be surprised with what you find.

    Are you a nature person? Where’s your favorite spot?

     

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