Four Years.

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Two things that a lot of you probably don’t know: One, Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. Two, and more significantly: it’s been four years since I’ve been in America for Thanksgiving.

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It’s been a year since I left the continent of Africa and coming up on a year since I returned home to the States after 27 months abroad, so I’ve been thinking a lot about what I’m thankful for. There’s the normal stuff we always talk about—friends, family, health, a roof over our heads—but after living abroad, there are a lot of things that I’m thankful for this year that at my last thanksgiving (2007) I took for granted.

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I’m thankful for a shower that delivers hot, soothing water, after years of cold showers or bathing in a bucket. This is something I will appreciate more for the rest of my life.

I’m thankful for electricity that works, reliably, not once in a while when it feels like it.

I’m thankful that any runs in with mice, cockroaches, ants, or scorpions are rare occurrences rather than an everyday part of life.

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I’m thankful for the ability to pick up my phone and call my parents or friends whenever I feel like it. I complain about AT&T’s horrible reception in SF, but it’s better than having reception disappear for days at a time, prohibitive call rates, and the other difficulties that made communication so difficult for years.

I’m thankful that when I want to go somewhere, I can get in my car, jump on the bus, or get a cab. I don’t depend on vans that are broken down with a drunk driver and no door with 30 people inside them, or sitting on the side of the road trying to hitchhike without knowing how far I’ll end up getting and wondering if I’m going to have to sleep on the road.

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I’m thankful that I can go running and not have people staring at me, chasing me, or throwing things at me. Rather, I am one of many, and it’s normal. I’m thankful that I have a healthy and capable body that can run 8 miles with my mommy in the freezing thanksgiving day rain.

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I’m thankful that at the age of 25 I’ve been able to visit dozens of countries and amazing places in the world.

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I’m thankful for the perspective that spending time in Africa for 2+ years gave me. For knowing that every day for the rest of my life, I’ll be thankful for things I never would have thought about before.

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And lastly, I’m thankful for skinny peppermint mochas, and for Starbucks’ ridiculous $5 price point that guarantees I’ll only buy one per year.

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Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Courtney

What are you thankful for?

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  • End of Bushfire and Back to Reality slash Mozambique

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    Woohoo! Last Swazi post! (I’m sure you’ve seen parts one, two and three already…) I am at my office in Maputo and wanted to get this out before I cross the border tonight for World Cup. FINALLY! If I have time today still, I will be sure to post my story of part 1 of the adventure :)

    After Saturday’s activities, Bushfire definitely wound down on Sunday. Most people seemed to come for Friday night and Saturday, and Sunday morning returned to wherever they came from (Mbane, Joburg, Maputo…), leaving just a few of us diehards alone in the freezing, pouring rain.

    Don’t let Sarah and my expressions fool you. It was cold and wet, but we sure had fun anyways.

    Large quantities of hot liquid were very much necessary, however.

    As were Camille’s supreme photographic skills. Our walk to the venue took us by some animals and much more significantly, by the King’s pineapple fields.

    Literally. Those are the King’s. The king of Swaziland is quite the celebrity–think he is the longest-reigning monarch in the world? Every year there is a hgue festival and celebration where he chooses yet another wife. Anyways…

    The day felt decidedly low-key. We sat inside for a while and watched a clown troupe. They are called Clowns Without Borders and go out into really poor areas and townships in South Africa to, as they say, put a smile on every child’s face.

    Sunday was not only more laid-back, it was definitely much more African! Friday was more pop and mainstream, Saturday was Afro fusion, and Sunday was decidedly Afro-jazz. Despite the rain and the cold, we ALL got our dance on and had a great time.

    Goodbye, Bushfire. Thanks for an AMAZING time.

    Monday morning, I went for a last nature walk with Camilla and then we grabbed a shuttle and then a minibus to Manzini, the main city. I stopped in Village Bakery (I am a sucker for baked goods!) and after much debate selected a piece of french bread with a little cream in the middle.

    Camille went big at King Pie, which is a South African chain sellnig fries and a variety of “King Pies” which are essentially different kinds of pot pies, including spicy chicken, cheesesteak, and a dozen other equally yummy and atery clogging flavors. Note to self: try sometime. Maybe then I will look this happy!

    We also got a last stop at SHOPRITE!!! Remember my moaning about not having sliced bread? There was more sliced bread than I could EVER WANT IN MY LIFE!!! I bought one loaf. And its called an energy loaf, which means it’s good.

    There are also other Afrikaaner products that I will never understand. Who can tell me what Full Fat Maas is? Sure sounds yummy though…

    Also, I have mentioned that my survival in Mozambique would not be possible without peanut butter. This is not an exaggeration. And for the first time perhaps ever… TONS of brands of peanut butter!!!

    I just realized that this stuff is “blog-worthy” for me because grocery stores are an amazing treat, but for everyone else this is ridiculous. Forgive me being so easily amused!!! At least I will never take them for granted again.

    One more big bus got us back to Lomasha and then we crossed the Mozambique border back into Namaacha. No pictures–we were trying to get pictures with the Bem Vindo a Mocambique sign and after Sarah and Camille got theirs, a very intimidating border official came up and yelled before I could get one.

    Love the stands at the chapa stops celling cakes. I always buy this bolo, which just tastes like a really dry corn muffin, but for some reason I really enjoy them. Mysterious.

    Our chapa was also stuffed to the gills with eggs. There were perhaps several thousand eggs stuffed in every single nook and cranny! If there is anything Mozambicans do extremely well, it is maximizing space in public transport vehicles. Don’t think I ever would have thought it possible to fit 35 people in a 15-passenger van before Moz. Now that’s normal.

    Watched the villages pass us by…

    …and then finally we were back in Maputo. We went out for dinner at Spicy Thai, where deliriousness led Camille to make friends with the fish in the tank next to us.

    Hot and sour soup and apple cinnamon tea were consumed.

    Followed by a movie (something with John Travolta and Robin Williams… Old Dogs? It was just okay, but it was a MOVIE, and there was popcorn.)

    Camille and Sarah headed out the next day, but I had to hang around for a medical follow up. I had a lovely lunch at Cafe Sol, the Paece Corps favorite haunt. Quiche!

    Since this is kind of a healthy living blog, I should show you my bad ass hotel room workout. Okay not very bad ass, but for future reference I do not recommend following 2 minutes of jumping jacks with two minutes of jumping lunges. WAYYYY too much jumping up in here.

    I also had time to organize my loot! Check out what I came home with: four beautiful placemats, four coasters and two hotpads made by women in Swaziland (the company is Gone Rural and it is wonderful), a canvas tote with guinea hens on it, and a little batik wallet/camera pouch. I felt like I splurged SO much, but this was all well under $30 total. Love Africa.

    And the food takeaway after my Shoprite spree: Cadbury light hot chocolate, two boxes of multi cheerios, one energy loaf, fake nutella, big corningware dish for microwave or baking, two little tupperwares with spoons built into the lids meant for kiddos but perfect for my yogurt and oatmeal (how cute are those??), gum, Zing juice that is produced in Swazi but I could not find ANYWHERE until I got to the border on my way out of the country, and two hot sauces (Nando’s and Black Mamba). 

    Check out the awesome “ingredients” in this “chili venom.” Hi, my name is Courtney and I have a hot sauce problem.

     That last night of my journey, I celebrated at the Waterfront Restaurant which is allegedly one of the top 75 restaurants in the world? I think Conde Nast (or maybe just this menu) is lying, but hey! let’s see!

    If you ever go to the Waterfront Restaurant in Maputo, Mozambique, go on a Tuesday. The soup of the day is pumpkin and it is DELICIOUS.

    Garlic prawns also recommended. I am going to miss cheap and plentifully available seafood. Mozambique has been good to me.

    The next day, I had a relatively painless journey back to Mozambique. My week in Maputo/Swaziland was all I could have hoped for and I am SO glad that it worked out the way it did. What an adventure!

    Sorry for the blandness of this post, I just wanted to get the rest of the pictures up and finish out the journey… and tell you abuot my penchant for hot sauce.

    Hope everyone’s having a great week and I will see you from the Cup!

    Tell me what the best hot sauce is. Seriously. Tell me. I will make my parents send it to me to add to the collection. Thanks, Mom.

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  • Swaziland Bushfire International Music Festival!

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    Why hello! I hope everyone had a GREAT weekend! I did not have internet access (or electricity, actually…) for most of the weekend so I am REALLY behind on email/blogging/comments/etc. just in time to leave again for almost two weeks, but I just want to say thank you SO MUCH for all the kind comments on my birthday post :) I did indeed feel special! Thanks! 

    I am leaving for the World Cup TOMORROW (!!!) and wanted to finish my last two Swaziland updates before then but I am not sure if I will get to both… but here comes part three! If you want to check out the first two parts (swaziland scenery and pictures of animals, and then the documentation of our road trip to swazi) please do! 

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    What brought us to Swazi in the first place was the Bushfire Festival, a music fest (think Africa´s Coachella or Bonaroo) hosted at Malandela´s House on Fire venue right near/in Milwane Nature Reserve. The music and entertainment started on Friday night and I unfortunately did not bring my camera, but Saturday was more or less well documented! 

     

    We arrived at the venue bright and early (around ten). So early, in fact, that they did not even let us in! Apparently people had snuck in and slept there or something so they were kicking everyone out… whatever. We live in Africa, we are patient people by necessity! 

     

    The venue was pretty awesome. I am pretty sure they just let a bunch of random artists loose to create magic. And that is exactly what it looks like. A little random, some stuff doesn´t quite fit, but really cool nonetheless. 

     

     

    This bench was the Love Station. I did not feel too comfortable sitting on it. 

     

     

     Definitely had that mandatory amount of hippy-dippy that is always present at music festivals. Check out the cellphone charging area… you could sit on pillowy chairs and sip tea while your cell is charged on purely clean energy! Love this. 

     

    There was one main indoor stage which hosted a lot of the smaller bands and theater, dance, and musical performances. 

     

    And a main stage outside for the big bands! We got to see the South African Grammy winners (best rock band, best alternative band, etc.) the first two nights… of course, none of us knew them, but being in a HUGE crowd of people all singing in unison is always a wonderful experience… very uniting. Even if you are confused as to why the rock band members have painted tears on their faces with makeup… 

     

    The first event on Saturday morning was a two-man theater performance called Man Up A Tree or something right along those lines. It was funny and entertaining but also with a strong underlying message about the perils of development, negative effects that Africans know well. The main example given was destroying the forest to make room for buildings, and encouraging people to plant trees. Relevant message ANYWHERE in the world! 

     

     

    Again, like at any good music festival, there was (relatively) cheap beer. And it should indeed be consumed at 10am. Abby and Liz were digging it. 

     

    The main reason we arrived right as the gates opened was to guarantee a chance to participate with The Silent Conductor! This dude is amazing. Basically, they pass out instruments to the audience and he “conducts” us to make beautiful music together. For the first part, PVC pipes-cum-whistles were distributed (different lengths, color-coded, meant different tones) and by pointing at each color in certain patterns, we (along with the band…) performed a pretty beautiful rendition of Stand by Me. 

     

     

    I took a little video of it for the blog (because as you can imagine, me explaining this is about 5% as cool as SEEING it) but it won´t upload! I should not be surprised or disappointed but, I just really wish I could share it with you all :(  

    Anyway, the best part was yet to come. DRUMS!!! 300 were distributed to the audience.

     

    I should mention that in a former life I was probably the drummer of a really bad ass rock band. I LOVE drumming. One of my definitely not secret talents is being able to beat almost every song on Rock Band/Rock Band 2/Beatles Rock Band on Expert. But only on the drums. I am a goddess of rhythm. 

     

    After rocking it out hardcore (I need to buy myself one of those drums immediately upon returning home…) it was time to explore the crafts tent. Oh no. Money suck! But luckily in Africa you can empty your wallet and not feel too bad about it, seeing as almost everything goes to support really good causes (and is reasonably priced). 

      

     

     

     

      

     

    One of the most AMAZING things I saw in the crafts tent was this very Operation Beautiful clothing company! They sold t shirts and a variety of little bags and things, but check out this mirror they had for people to model the products. The mirror was surrounded by messages such as “dreams do come true,” “I am beautiful,”I live in the now,” “I forgive myself.” I REALLY wanted to add an Operation Beautiful note to the mirror but I didn´t have any paper! Tragic!!! But this was basically Operation Beautiful in Africa anyways. Their main t-shirt had what appeared to be a weird squiggle print on it but when you looked in the mirror, you read “I CREATE MY OWN REALITY.” Pretty awesome! 

     

    There was always SOMETHING going on at the venue. We got to see several different traditional Swazi dance troupes which was a treat. Love African dance. It is funny, I took dance for YEARS and always felt MOST confident on the dance floor, but on this continent I feel like the most incapable klutz! As is often the case, the stereotypes are true: Africans can SHAKE IT. They often giggle at us awkward foreign girls, but love that we try nonetheless. 

     

    Okay, I have mentioned the music, the dancing, the venue… what else could people reading my blog possibly want to hear about? Oh yeah, probably food. Okay so. I was really looking forward to the festival because I had heard there were a ton of different options and I was hoping to get to try some crazy African dishes or at least some stuff with more veggies! It was a bit limited but we still did just fine. My favorite stand (pictured here) had DONUTS and MUFFINS and HOT COCOA. They really were not super high quality or anything, but, NOWHERE sells donuts or muffins in the Moz! The cocoa was basically one spoon of cheap hot chocolate powder (instead of the recommended three) floating on top of some hot water, but I bought it a dozen times because IT WAS FREEZING. Seriously. I could not sleep at night because it was so cold. Africa has made me a WIMP!

     

     

     

    I enjoyed one sprinkle donut (don´t sprinkles make EVERYTHING better?) and cocoa for a second breakfast on Saturday while waiting to get my drum on, and two small “marble” muffins at other points over the weekend. Totally delicious. Man, I miss baked goods. 

     

     

    In terms of “real” food, the hot dogs were incredibly popular and looked delicious. Everyone got these… 

     

    Except me; while I liked the idea of a hot dog, there was a “vegetarian pita” option and I figured I HAD to try that! A VEGGIE PITA! Um. Regrettable. If anyone wants to tell me what this fake meat substance is, I would appreciate it, because I sure as heck have no idea! 

     

    The pizza got some rave reviews, and smelled delicious. But I was way too impatient to wait for it. I take what I said earlier about being patient. I lied. 

     

    Corn was grilling throughout the day… 

     

    And popcorn was popping! For those of you who don´t know, I LOVE POPCORN. I will go to the movie theater in Maputo just to buy popcorn. Plus, it was CHEAP. I think I had four baggies over the weekend! 

     

    Brought food from outside, too. We stopped at Shoprite in Manzini and I bought a box of Multi-grain Cheerios. Real cereal is a luxury, and that box did NOT even make it 48 hours! Cheerios, I OWN YOU. 

     

    Probably the biggest tragedy of the weekend was when I was preparing oats and coffee in the morning, MY SPORK BROKE!!! I have (had?) this cute green spork that I got from REI over Christmas (It says Light My Fire on it… how can it not be awesome?) that I take (took?) EVERYWHERE when I am traveling. Reached in for a scoop of PB and it broke in half! A moment of silence for my spork. You have been good to me. 

     

    Besides sporks breaking, this day was an AMAZING time. We spent the night listening to Afro-jazz bands, including super-popular pop group Freshly Ground (check them out on iTunes, they are WONDERFUL) as well as a new South African singer named Lira who I am pretty sure ALL of us (men and women included) fell head over heels in love with. So soulful, sexy, and sung about being comfortable in YOUR skin. Loved her. 

     

     

    What a day! If anyone has the opportunity to go Swaziland or Africa in general, try to make it to Bushfire. I know that sounds silly, but you should all go :)  

    I will be back as soon as I can with my final Swazi recap! Thanks for reading! 

    Have you ever been to a music festival? What is the BEST concert you have ever seen?

     

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  • Road Trip: Swaziland

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    Hi everyone!!! I hope you all got a chance to check out my Swazi Scenery post with more of the beautiful pictures of animals and mountains and all of that. Today I am going to start rehashing the journey from Vilanculos, to Maputo, to Manzini, to Milwane Nature Reserve!

    Also random note: today is my birthday! I am excited. That is all. :)

    The trip got started on a Wednesday morning with oats to go and a variety of travel snacks. If you want to know what kind of food I bring when I travel, this is it. Oatmeal, PB and Clif bars. Although my stash of oats and Clif is getting dangerously low. Sad times :(

    Sarah and I were lucky to get a ride out to Pambarra (the junction with the national highway, known only as “National Road Number One.” Literally, it is the only road running from the south to the north of the country. One road to get anywhere you want!) We would be waiting for the next hour or so until our bus passed, so Sarah had the brilliant idea to rent an esteira, one of the straw mats that are sold there for like a dollar. We rented one for 50 cents. Success! Comfortable place to rest while we waited for our bus. One of the things I love the most about Mozambique. You can break any rule. In fact, there are no rules. You can always ask people for anything. And chances are, they will say yes!

    The ride down was speedy and uneventful, two words that are rarely used to describe traveling in Mozambique. My favorite part of the rides are the palm forests in the southern part of my province, Inhambane. Ignore all the splotches if you can… I was sitting in the front on the top (double decker bus) and the windows were REALLY dirty.

    Another beautiful spot in southern Inhambane is Quissico, where a beautiful freshwater bay meets the ocean. This picture, taken from the bus, of course, does NOT do it justice! I will be back in late August for the Timbila music festival, so expect better pictures then! : )

    And the other highlight… passing the Tropic of Capricorn sign. Another thing for the “must do before leaving Mozambique” list is to get out of the car and get a picture with this sign. Next time I hitchhike, I am totally sweet talking the driver into doing this for us.

    When we finally arrived in Maputo, it was late and two of our friends were waiting to meet up with us at perhaps the most chic spot in the capital city: Dolce Vita martini bar. Talk about your out of body experience. This bar, in Africa??

    Spending a quarter of my week´s money on a Waldorf salad because they HAD A WALDORF SALAD ON THE MENU is a completely justifiable expense. I am convinced.

    We stayed with some Americans, who live in a very… American location. It felt like walking into the Others’ complex on the island for the first time! (For Lost fans only, sorry. Speaking of, how was season six?? I wouldn’t know. Sad face.)

    Breakfast at Cafe Sol was just the ticket. I have talked about this amazing cafe a couple of times on the blog, and it never fails to disappoint. I ordered iced coffee per tradition automatically, but after thirty seconds realized I was actually freezing cold, and switched to a real coffee. Still exciting and rare.

    Breakfast: a breakfast burrito. Asked for little oil, and this thing was really just veggies and eggs in a tortilla (also rare). With salsa. And salad. DELICIOUS.

    And a chocolate chip cookie. My favorite, but this was being saved for a special person who I wanted to get to try one :)

    I was holding out for ice cream. Ice cream before noon is normal, right? We headed to Il Gelato, a newly reopened gelato place on Julius Nyerere, and I got a scoop of “cookies.”

    My friend got this. HOW AMAZING IS THIS?!?!?!? Where can I find this bowl?!?!

    I just want to point out the dangers of poorly translated menus. How would you like to try some “grain of worn out peak” for lunch, or perhaps we could interest you in “meat cow”? Note: if you planning on eating safely in Mozambique, speak Portuguese.

    The next day came bright and early, and we hopped on a chapa to Namaacha. Namaacha is a small town in Maputo province that is right on the Swaziland border. I actually lived here for ten weeks from October–December 2008 for my Peace Corps Pre-Service Training, and visited once again in November 2009 to help out with training for the group behind me. But I had never had the opportunity to cross the border. I had been waiting for SO LONG!!! Camille was happy to finally arrive.

    And look: WE’RE IN SWAZILAND! Hooray!

    The trip did not end there, though. After walking across the border (which was refreshingly simple… I always seem to expect the worst with any bureaucratic government type of thing on this continent) we had to get on another bus headed to Manzini. Lomaasha (the town across the border) was cute and we found a big, clean, speedy bus nearly ready to go. Clearly, we aren’t in Kansas anymore. It really is crazy how different Mozambique is from all the surrounding countries. So much less developed. Really sad.

    These pictures I take out the windows of buses never really come out so great, but I still enjoy taking them. This is one of my favorite thing about Africa: buying fruit on the side of the road.

    One thing you can always count on for sure in Africa: absolutely INSANE and hectic and terrifying but also somehow weirdly organized transport centers. Please just take in the scenery at the Manzini main transport center. And imagine us walking around being pummeled by five to fifty people yelling “WHERE YOU GO?! WHERE YOU GO?!” Believe me, you’ll never again feel so ALIVE.

    Luckily, chicken strips and spicy rice at Nando’s fueled me up for the last leg of the journey. Okay, I have been to Nando’s in the United Kingdom, Swaziland, and South Africa… but where is it in the US? I mean I know it exists, but how come I never hear of anyone going there? It ROCKS, people.

    We took a kumbi (minibus) from Manzini to the entrance of the Milwane Nature Reserve. From there we geared up for what looked to be a very, very, VERY long walk. Cue nice dude in pickup truck stopping about 30 seconds into said long walk to offer us a ride. SCORE!

    Speaking of feeling very alive, I also think that speeding through African nature reserves in the back of pickup trucks with friends is right up there.

    We finally got to the gate where we paid our entrance fees and our friend took us right to Sondzela Backpackers Lodge, the backpackers that is right inside the reserve.

    Time to catch up with friends and relax! I just love hostels. I feel very alive when I am there. Okay, I’m done with that whole metaphor thing whatever. But seriously, I love seeing info about other places and meeting travelers and reading brochures. I am, and always will be, a complete travel dork. But seriously, I love backpackers. There are definitely bad things about them, but they bring back so many fun memories… the amazing place on Las Ramblas in Barcelona that served free, hearty dinners every night; the Mountain Hostel in Gimmelwald, Switzerland (pop.100) that you had to take a train, a bus and then a gondola up a mountain to get to; the funky place in Sultanamet, Istanbul (Turkey) with the rooftop restaurant overlooking the Bosphorous. So many memories!!

    Please note the Mozambique warning below. I think this is pretty true. If you are in Mozambique, you should indeed watch out for these things. I don’t have to though, because I live here. Boom.

    The backpackers has huts, a big main house with a bunch of dorms, and a separate big house with a different name that I unfortunately cannot recall, which our group pretty much dominated. Not to mention it has some pretty amazing views.

    We made it!!! And thus ends the first chapter of my journey to Swaziland. Stay tuned for updates on the festival itself. It’s coming. :)

    Have you ever stayed in backpackers/hostels? Where? What did you like or not like? What are your favorite parts about traveling?

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  • Sunday Musings and Swazi Scenery!

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    I will open with this trenchant observation: don’t get too close to a pack of zebras. No matter how cute they may appear.

    Happy Sunday everybody! It has been five days since I last posted due to extremely slow internet and a ton of Swazi pictures I have been trying to upload, without luck for many of them. I think I have about four posts worth of stuff so I am going to make this first post just a bunch of pictures from the nature reserve that I was staying in. The posts about my travels, eats, and adventures will come later… until then, you’re stuck with pictures of animals and trees : )

    We were staying at a hostel/backpackers located right in Milwane Nature Reserve, which is a protected park. Every day I took the opportunity to go for a walk or go running through the surrounding areas and just be blown away by the beauty surrounding me in every direction! And the QUIET. I think we often do not have enough real “quiet” in our lives, there’s always SOMETHING. And in Milwane, I got to breathe, listen to the sounds of nature, the monkeys calling, the birds chirping. It was really wonderful.

    I saw a ton of animals including impala, springbok, zebras, warthogs, monkeys, and a variety of other species I couldn’t name! Unfortunately there aren’t lions or giraffes in the park where I was, but perhaps that was better, seeing as I was out running alone in the middle of nowhere at 6AM, which is not the ideal time to bump into a lion in its natural habitat. Next time…

    I think that these runs may have been the best that I have ever been on. Definitely not from an exercise point of view, seeing as I was going at a snail’s pace attempting to take in the world around me slash stopping every three minutes to take a picture of something. But that was what I needed to do here. I am in Swaziland for the weekend, for goodness’ sake, and I am going running through a nature park. THIS. IS. AWESOME. (I am pretty sure that was what I was repeating to myself the entire time.)

    I don’t know if I can ever go back to a zoo after living here. (Okay, that’s probably a lie… the San Diego ZOO and wild animal park are pretty sweet.) But it’s funny how normal it is to see these animals on the road in front of me (that warthog in a picture below got in the way when I was running and we stopped and stared at each other for a few long minutes. Kind of cute if you stare at it for a while… a LONG while…) and I cannot imagine how weird and wrong it would feel to see them in captivity again. But I digress.

    I loved this sign too. Wildlife has the right of way! AMEN. In Africa most places (okay, well at least in Mozambique), people don’t even have the right of way. Ever. I do not know how many times I have nearly been killed by cars. And I could mention how often this does indeed happen, but this post does not feel like the appropriate time or place. Anyway, this reserve was definitely a welcome respite from the day to day hectic-ness (is there a word??) of life in cities. I could probably stay in a hut here for a few weeks and be utterly content.

    I don’t know if you can tell what this creature is on the fence, but it is indeed a monkey. These are actually one of the few interesting creatures I have run into in Moz, so while this sighting was not anything super out of the ordinary, it was really fun to watch these two monkeys fight over some nonexistent object. really reminded me of young children bickering. I kind of love monkeys… from a safe distance and not in my house. Although if one did indeed turn up in my house, that would make for a pretty great blog post.

    I really fell in love with Swaziland over this weekend. If anyone is planning a trip to Southern Africa (South Africa, Mozambique, Botswana…) a stop in Swaziland is a must! It is a seemingly random country, tiny and tucked in between several more notable nations, and known for things like a king who continually adds new wives to his harem and one of the highest rates of HIV in the world (at one time the highest). But it is much more than that…. it is a country full of charm, tradition, and kindness. The people were so friendly, many people are educated and most speak English (the most commonly spoken language is SiSwati, the native tongue, but being a British colony, English is the other official language). The transport is easy, the roads are nice, and you can get real products at the stores. It is civilization! Although that kind of becomes a joke for those of us who live in Mozambique, because “civilization” apparently refers to anywhere BUT Mozambique. A sad joke, but the reality is that Mozambique is significantly less than developed than its surrounding neighbors, meaning that simply crossing over the border and stepping onto a bus or into a store can actually be a bit of a culture shock.

    Today is June 6th. Well into the month of June, and most bloggers would admit that they had missed the opportunity to do any requisite musings on the end of one month and the beginning of another. But I declare that the rules do not apply to me so need to take a second here to do do.

    One of the first “real” posts I made here on P&P was A New Month, setting some goals for the month of May. I think it was at this moment that I started really commenting on other blogs and trying to become a part of the blog community, so in a way, this is my one month anniversary of being a real blogger. : ) Okay I totally do not feel like a real blogger yet, but hopefully I will get there some day.

    Anyway, I decided to make several goals for the month of May and post them on the blog to make myself accountable–really just to myself because at the time I did not believe that anyone would actually ever be reading this, but accountable just the same. So I think my conscience demands at least looking back for a moment to see how I did on my goals or what I said I was planning to do…

    Here we have my goal updates accompanied by a picture of snares collected in the national park. AKA, this is what is waiting for me if I fail to complete things I say I will do. Haha. Not quite.

    So what were the things I said I would do every day?

    Floss every day: MAJOR FAIL. Sorry if that is TMI… but this was my most important goal really, because it needs to be a “life change,” but I didn’t do so well. I vow again to make this a daily part of my routine!

    Blogging, ten posts: check! I actually did pretty well with posting this month, much better than I expected, and I loved all the comments and feedback I got from you guys! THANKS! June is setting up to be a blogger fail, but you make the most of what you are working with, I suppose. Out of country Africa backpacker blogging can be a bit of a challenge…

    Running, ten times: check. I did my runs and I succeeded with a couple of long ones over two hours. Holla! Must continue to make running a well integrated part of my life. I think *fingers crossed* that I have finally trained through my runner’s knee but, as always, that remains to be seen. Here’s hoping!

    Trainings at work: check! I finally posted about what I do normally at my job here in Moz, and as I states in my goals, I was able to execute, working in collaboration with colleagues, three different trainings, culminating in a training of Agentes de Mudanca (agents of social change) in which we “capacitized” people who are notable leaders in their communities to speak out on issues of gender equality, women’s empowerment, strengthening the family economy, and being knowledgeable about rights in regards to inheritances and family laws. It was really cool and I cannot wait to see what kind of lasting change we see in their communities! Again, here’s hoping!

    Food/baking: I did do a few fun baking experiments this month, but didn’t get my English muffins baked. BOO. It was a bit hard because I had visitors OR was working every weekend which made “Weekend Baking” a bit more difficult than expected. But that’s okay! Plenty of time!

    Grad school list: check. Kind of. I am definitely applying to graduate school in the fall (well, it’s the spring for me) and I think I know more or less where I am going to apply to now. Sucessos! Now I need to get started on the REAL work… but I have a few months, so it should be plenty of time.

    And lastly, I DID manage to fight my way through Great Expectations (check!) but I think I belaboured it for so long that I didn’t really enjoy it to the extent that I should have… I will file it away under the “reread” category. One chapter left of Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius. That counts, right? I both love Dave Eggers and want to throttle him. Next book I think will be American Wife by Curtis Sittenfeld.

    So overall I think I did pretty well. But definitely room for improvement.

    June is shaping up to be a really crazy month as I did originally expect. Coming back from Swaziland, med stuff in Maputo, catch-up at work. Next week is my only real full week of work this month and I am taking Wednesday off because it is my BIRTHDAY! I am turning 24 and am going to make it MY day. This is one of my mom’s traditions and one I would like to start as well…. I worked on my birthday last year and the whole time I was thinking, “WHY. AM. I. HERE.” I mean, I know it is a bit entitled and optimistic to think that I am never going to work on my birthday EVER, but if you can take it off and enjoy it however YOU want to, why the heck not? I am very much looking forward to Wednesday. No parties, no hoopla, no nothing. Probably just a nice run, some pancakes, a lunch out at a restaurant in town and some time spent contemplating my life and what I want my 24th year to look like. And while that may be boring, it is all I need right now.

    After that, I leave around the 15th to Cape Town (three days of overland travel there–yay!) for the flipping WORLD CUP. I still can NOT believe I am going! I am trying to decide if I should try to blog from there or not. I think it would be a great opportunity to be blogging from there, to be able to update friends and family and readers about the craziness and amazingness that the trip will surely be. But, I also don’t want to be in South Africa (dangerous) worrying about losing my laptop (quite possible) or spending hours on the internet when, come on, I’m at the world cup! So that is on my mind right now. Even going to Swazi for a long weekend, I was off the internet for bout six days and of course I am STILL not caught up yet (and I don’t even want to talk about my google reader)! But… blogs and emails are always going to be there so I think I might have to peace out from the interwebs for some time while I am living it up in South Africa. Once in a lifetime opportunity! CAN’T. WAIT. I cannot even imagine how much fun I am going to have…

    With all that being said, my June goal is to GET OVER IT. Okay, that sounds a bit silly. But in May, I found myself really bogged down and stressed out, for a number of different reasons, and nothing that really merits a discussion here. But I noticed myself being stressed out, anxious, emotional, and it manifesting itself in negative ways–overeating, harping on unimportant things, negative trains of thought and outlooks towards life. This isn’t me. I know this. So why have I let myself get caught up in that downward spiral?

    Some things are not important.

    I have gotten off track. Way too much of my time in the last few weeks has been spent thinking about unimportant and negative things. I cannot get that time back, but I can choose to turn it around. Being here is such a mind game sometimes, just getting from one day to the next. It is so easy to think about what I am missing out on THERE, which makes me miss the beauty that I have HERE. I do love Mozambique and my experience, and sometimes it feels like you need to be all warm-fuzzy about things because people are saying things like “you’re so brave” and “I could never do that” and other things that I do not believe at all, but yet it feels like you have to live up to some ideal, some silent suffering. But there is no glory in that and life, no matter where we are in the world or where we are in our lives, is hard sometimes! That is reality and there is no reason to hide from it. But rather, I just need to re evaluate how I REACT to it, and get back on track with the person I know myself to be: positive, full of life and excited for the day ahead.

    June, I’m not worrying about stress or uncertainty or unanswered questions or five extra pounds. I’m just living. I am living in every moment, being more aware of the world around me, waking up wondering how I can make the world a better place for others to be in. I need to get back to where I belong. Everything changes now. : )

    No measurable goals, no pressure on myself or on anybody else. Just being. Just existing, figuring out more about who I am and what it is that I want, what I am searching for. And a whole lot of fun along the way. Once again… here’s hoping.

    Choose hope… always choose hope! If I learn one thing in my life, I hope that that would be it.

    Now I will leave you with some more pretty pictures from Swaziland. Happy Sunday, everybody!!!


    Question: Have you ever felt yourself getting “off track” in some area of your life? How did you realize it? What do you do to turn it around?

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  • Off to Swazi… and Missing My Sister

    CAIT4x4

    I have been looking forward to this weekend for MONTHS, and I cannot believe it is really here! May has been a pretty rough month at times with various causes of stress, but the next month is shaping up to be absolutely amazing! Everything is getting better. And it all starts NOW.

    I am heading down to Maputo, where I will meet up with some other Peace Corps friends to cross the border into Swaziland on Friday morning for the Bush Fire Festival. This is a huge international music fest right in a game reserve in Swaziland with different stages, events, bands, and a variety of other awesomeness from Friday through Sunday! I didn’t get a chance to go last year (probably because I had never heard of it) and am looking forward to an AMAZING time with some of my favorite people in Africa!

    From a health aspect, traveling in Africa can be REALLY stressful, but I really try to keep it all in perspective. I hope they have some different foods in Swazi to try! And my running clothes are packed… running through a game reserve anyone? : ) I guess getting chased by a lion on my morning run would really force me to get some speed work in…

    Plus, I will get a chance to do some grocery shopping in Maputo, eat at some decent restaurants and take a hot shower or two—SCORE, especially because of how painful my cold shower has been lately (there is nothing like getting out from under three blankets, stripping off my sweatpants, jacket, and two shirts, to get into a shower that is even colder than the air. Brrr!!!)

    I also have a follow up medical appointment in Maputo, about two months after I had my last trip for the same reasons (check out the travelogue and restaurant tour from that trip). I hope everything is okay (I had some complication in my stomach/esophagus that presented as serious chest pain), but my health has been pretty poor throughout the last few weeks, so we will see! Fingers crossed.

    As excited as I am about this trip, my heart isn’t completely here. One of the tough realities of living overseas is that you miss a LOT. And this weekend is probably one of the hardest things yet to miss (in addition to holidays and weddings of my close friends). My little sister is graduating from college this weekend. It is a huge production, a family affair, and my heart breaks to not be there. She also turns 22 on Thursday. I feel like I have missed her “grow up”—when I left she was my little sister, about halfway through college, still figuring things out. Now she is a grown woman, graduating from Princeton and starting grad school in the fall on her own. I wish I could be there with here, but unfortunately unless I develop teleportation skills in the next day or so, I can only wish her congratulations from afar.

    Have you seen a cuter kid??

    It’s just my sister and me in our family, plus my mom and dad, of course. As a kid, I was the typical older sister, bossing her around like crazy, beating her down constantly to make myself feel better, and making her do stupid stuff like wear silly costumes and put lipstick on her face to make home videos, and she put up with me. God only knows why. (Sorry, Caitlin.) We competed in soccer (she was WAY better… collegiate athlete anyone??) and horseback riding and other similar activities, and we definitely had our spats (like when she stole my diary and read it out loud on the school bus and I bawled in the office for an hour waiting for mommy to get there and make everything right again) but it was pretty much all good.

    HS decades dance... 50s and 70s!

    In high school, we were polar opposites. Both smart ad involved, but I was the straight-edge, teacher’s pet, youth-group dance team princess and my sister was… well, a more NORMAL high schooler. This led to all sorts of conflict–I resented her dating all the guys in my class and always sneaking out to parties, under the guise of being embarrassed by her but really being jealous because I wasn’t dating and wasn’t getting invited to those parties… and she resented me for making it WAY harder on her (older children are supposed to pave the way for the younger, and my boring straight edge existence definitely paved the way for no one).

    "Come on Dad, do we STILL have to take pictures on the first day of school?"

    But then we grew up and matured and went our own ways. I headed to college in Los Angeles, she came and visited me. Two years later, she headed out to Jersey, I visited a handful of times. I got a life in college and she settled down. We finally met in the middle. And all of a sudden, I found I could talk to her about boys and parties and friendships and relationships and life and family and everything in between. And I don’t know what moment it changed or if it is just growing up, but somewhere down that line, she became my best friend.

    In Cabo San Lucas, 2005

    I’m missing her graduation, and for that I am infinitely sad (but to be honest, I am equally bummed about missing these booze-filled Princeton “reunions” of lore as the ceremony itself…) and when I get home, she will be off on her own in a new place. I feel like I missed this great transition in her life by spending these two years in Africa. But what I do know, is we have the rest of our lives to get closer and to make more memories, and I am the luckiest girl in the world to have a sister like Caitlin. Happy Graduation and Happy Birthday, Sissy. I love you!

    That's my girl... never met a keg she didn't like.

    Do you have a sister? What is your relationship like with that person? How much did it change since your childhood?


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