Four Years.

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Two things that a lot of you probably don’t know: One, Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. Two, and more significantly: it’s been four years since I’ve been in America for Thanksgiving.

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It’s been a year since I left the continent of Africa and coming up on a year since I returned home to the States after 27 months abroad, so I’ve been thinking a lot about what I’m thankful for. There’s the normal stuff we always talk about—friends, family, health, a roof over our heads—but after living abroad, there are a lot of things that I’m thankful for this year that at my last thanksgiving (2007) I took for granted.

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I’m thankful for a shower that delivers hot, soothing water, after years of cold showers or bathing in a bucket. This is something I will appreciate more for the rest of my life.

I’m thankful for electricity that works, reliably, not once in a while when it feels like it.

I’m thankful that any runs in with mice, cockroaches, ants, or scorpions are rare occurrences rather than an everyday part of life.

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I’m thankful for the ability to pick up my phone and call my parents or friends whenever I feel like it. I complain about AT&T’s horrible reception in SF, but it’s better than having reception disappear for days at a time, prohibitive call rates, and the other difficulties that made communication so difficult for years.

I’m thankful that when I want to go somewhere, I can get in my car, jump on the bus, or get a cab. I don’t depend on vans that are broken down with a drunk driver and no door with 30 people inside them, or sitting on the side of the road trying to hitchhike without knowing how far I’ll end up getting and wondering if I’m going to have to sleep on the road.

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I’m thankful that I can go running and not have people staring at me, chasing me, or throwing things at me. Rather, I am one of many, and it’s normal. I’m thankful that I have a healthy and capable body that can run 8 miles with my mommy in the freezing thanksgiving day rain.

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I’m thankful that at the age of 25 I’ve been able to visit dozens of countries and amazing places in the world.

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I’m thankful for the perspective that spending time in Africa for 2+ years gave me. For knowing that every day for the rest of my life, I’ll be thankful for things I never would have thought about before.

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And lastly, I’m thankful for skinny peppermint mochas, and for Starbucks’ ridiculous $5 price point that guarantees I’ll only buy one per year.

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Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Courtney

What are you thankful for?

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  • Wow.

    In the last week, I have:

    • Left Mozambique.
    • Cried at the border.
    • Rented a car and drove on the WRONG side of the road.
    • Visited Lesotho and trekked on mountain ponies through remote villages for three days.
    • Broke something in my bottom after being on a horse for three days.
    • Hiked to a waterfall.
    • Been stuck in a lightning storm on a mountain.
    • Stayed in an amazing art gallery and cafe town called Clarens.
    • Took tons of pictures.
    • Couldn’t yet access a computer that will allow me to share said pictures.
    • Went running and remembered how badly I need to buy new shoes.
    • Tried to buy new Asics at a Johannesburg mall and found out they cost $300 here.
    • Bribed a public official after allegedly committing a crime.
    • Drank a milkshake for breakfast. And it was good.

    It’s been quite a week… I am realizing how much my blogging is going to totally blow this month… bear with me please. When I DO update, it will be fan-freaking-tastic.

    Flying to Cairo tomorrow night… now the adventure REALLY begins.

    I miss everyone! Update when possible!

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  • I got ATM scammed (and I’m grateful, too).

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     Don’t worry about the title, it will make sense later.

     As most of you know, I went to South Africa a couple of weeks ago, where I learned some lessons and had a great time. Upon returning, however, I learned something not so nice. I logged onto my online banking to check my balance, and had about… nothing. Apparently, someone had spend $1,800 at a trading company in Johannesburg and another hundred bucks or so on skincare… when my debit card was in my wallet the whole time.

    Scams happen. Many people get their credit card numbers stolen at some point. It even happened to me already once last year, which nearly left me stranded with only four dollars in my pocket, hundreds of kilometers away from my village! But South Africa is notorious for ATM crime (and just crime in general). Overly helpful strangers, strategically placed mirrors, gizmos that make the machine “eat” your card, even armed robbery with knives and drugs swiped on you or stabbed in your arm that cause you to pass out about thirty seconds later… money and card still in hand. These things are real and they happen.

     When I first arrived in SA a few weeks ago, our bus stopped at a rest stop and there was an overly helpful stranger guiding people through the “complicated” ATM process. I was creeped out and waited to use the ATM until he’d stepped away. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, that very day someone was trying to withdraw money with my same account number in Johannesburg (which I was hours away from). Maybe there was a mirror, or a camera. I don’t know. What I DO know is that I THOUGHT I was being safe and you can NEVER be too sure.

     When I found out my money had been stolen, it was pretty frustrating: not just because I was now apparently broke, but because they’d have to cancel my debit card. I was planning on traveling the next weekend, and only had about $100 in my Peace Corps account to get me through the next MONTH, and I needed American money. I also needed access to money to apply to grad school and to plan my upcoming Asia travels, and I had NO IDEA how I could get the card, with Moz mail unreliable and my weeks counting down.

     No money. No card. No easy way to replace either. I was kind of SOL.

     I had my requisite five-minute freak out, but then I calmed down and realized: it could be so much worse. I am working on developing an attitude of gratitude (like my mother has), and to see the good in tough situations. And I realized that despite the scam and theft, I was incredibly lucky.

     I was grateful that I just happened to log onto my online banking fifteen minutes before the end of a workday.

    I was grateful that the internet was working (always a question mark) and I could notify my parents at home.

    I was grateful that our horribly unreliable cell phone service stayed connected through an entire conference call with Wells Fargo fraud protection services.

    I was grateful that I have parents who love and support me and who are willing to drop everything to help me with issues like this.

    I was grateful that this happened while I was at home and not when I was traveling, so there was no way I would be stranded.

    I was grateful that I happen to live with other Americans, who could loan me money in the case of an emergency.

    I was grateful that it was not much, much worse than it was.

     Sure, I was upset at first that I, you know, got robbed and got cut off from any money, which is scary. But then a quote popped into my head and I just started laughing:

     “If this is the worst thing that happens to you today, you are very lucky.”

     It’s so true. Unfortunate things happen but in the scheme of life they are meaningless. And I was grateful that this little incident made me realize how truly lucky I am.

     That being said, I am putting this out there as a warning for ANYONE who is going to travel to South Africa or who has family members, friends, or acquaintances going. YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO CAREFUL. ATM scams are REAL and they are QUICK. If you are going, be EXTREMELY cautious; try to use ATMs at banks and during operating hours so if there is anything suspicious happening you can notify someone. Keep in contact with your bank at home: before your trip, let them know exactly where you plan to be and what you plan to be spending money on, so they can be on high alert for fraud. Check your online banking frequently to be aware of anything suspicious. Also, have a backup plan to get access to cash should your info be stolen. PLEASE share this with anyone you know who might be traveling there.

     I know this isn’t relevant for most of you reading this, but I thought it needed to be shared and that’s what a blog is for.

     Here’s to NOT getting my information stolen for a third time!

    Have you ever been scammed?

    What is something you’re grateful for?

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  • I’m Feelin’ Like A Star, You Can’t Stop My Shine

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    SO, before I rush out tomorrow on another African adventure, I wanted to post about my trip to South Africa! You may have heard it was my first vacation by myself and also read my 10 health and happiness lessons I learned on safari (all my best animal pics are there). But as for the rest… well, internet time is at a premium and instead of having time to break it up into several posts, I have one. One very long one. Not ideal, but sorry I’m not sorry… I do what I can! I am an African blogger, after all. Suckaz.

    It is basically all pictures (70?) so you can probably just scroll down really quick and get a pretty complete pictorial idea of my trip. I won’t be offended! : )

    Headed out to the junction to wait for my bus at a little barraca and downed some instant coffee until my bus picked me up, where I was promptly handed snacks. I love being handed free food… especially when you paid for it.

    About two minutes after my iPod went into my ears, “Ridin’ Solo” came on shuffle. “I’m feelin’ like a star, can’t stop my shine… ridin’ solo” seemed to be the perfect happy soundtrack to kick off my solitary adventure. (Solo travel tip #1: view every single moment as an integral part of your trip, not just a means to an end. Tip #2: have a really good playlist on your iPod, because many of those moments might be boring.)

    Upon arriving in Maputo, I got in a cab on the way to a friendly American’s house who often lets us crash at her place in the city (and raid her cereal stash), and my cabbie tried to start a fight with me. When we were alone. In a very sketchy area. Where’s mom? Got there safe, met new USG workers and friends, enjoyed some wine and ice cream and sparkling conversation. And a hot shower. Life will be boring when hot showers aren’t something I look forward to for weeks at a time.

    Up early the next morning for another bus into South Africa. And I got the front seat! Yay! Please tell me I am not the only one out there who still gets excited about things like this.

    (Tip #3: unless you have a very, very active mind, bring a very long book with you. Gone With the Wind, at 1443 pages, will do nicely.)

    At the border, the following conversation happened as I was leaving Mozambique:

    Me (to border guard): Bom dia, como está? (Good morning, how are you?)

    BG: tudo bem, obrigado. (Everything is well, thanks.)

    Me: Também estou bem. (I’m good too.)

    BG upon seeing my American passport: Na America todo o mundo fala português fluentemente? (In America, everyone speaks fluent Portuguese?)

    Me: ummmm… (Thinking: yes. Obviously. Seeing as I just said seven words to you. Clearly we all are fluent in Portuguese. Okay, maybe I shouldn’t say that out loud.)

    Soon we were into South Africa and at a rest stop. Which means snacks and massive sweet bread rolls to devour, and pretty scenery along the way.

    I got a ride into Hazyview where I would be staying, which is a gorgeous town full of banana plantations. This bag of… 20-plus cost maybe $1.50.

    The place I was staying, Big 5 Backpackers, had a cute little dorm on a hill that I got to rule with an iron fist… as I was the only one staying in it. (Tip #4: if you want to socialize, stay at crowded places. Though I was thrilled, as I was here to chill the heck out.)

    The common room was cute and I got to unpack the groceries I grabbed in Nelspruit. For how distracted I am in grocery stores now, I did pretty well: apples, mandarins, two cans of healthy soup, peanut butter, FRESH MILK!, and a magazine (splurge!) in addition to the stuff I brought from home. (Tip #5: buy groceries. You will save a lot of money. Especially if the closest store is an hour walk away.)

    The next day I was ready for my SAFARI in kruger national park! Pickup time was 5:30am so we could get into the park right at 6AM when the gates opened.

    Pimp my ride.

    I was with two sweet French Canadian girls who were also staying at the same place. (Tip #6: if you’re traveling solo, try to make friends with everyone. You will have a better time, and if you’re cool, they will stop wondering if you are weird and/or awkward because you’re by yourself. Although, let’s be honest, they’ll still wonder.)

    We stopped at the main camp, Skukuza, to take a break. Ten hours of sitting in an open-air safari vehicle and staring into the bush is surprisingly exhausting.

    Always need to try something exciting… this fit the bill. Chocolate honeycomb!

    We went to a type of lookout point to see over the park. Cue silly photos.

    Hippos!

    (Tip #7: always have snacks in your bag. My key items for African travel are instant oatmeal packets and clif bars. Oh, and durable fruit and crackers and peanut butter. You’d be surprised how many days you can live on just those…)

    Late afternoon, we were out of the park. Check out my last post for better and bigger animal pictures. Overall it was a great day and we were lucky to see the Big 5! (Buffalo, rhino, elephant, lion, and leopard. The Big 5 were chosen as the five most dangerous animals to approach on the ground. Aka be careful or you’re dinner.)

    The next morning got even earlier (4:30am pickup!) for a bush walk. Basically, you watch the sunrise as you walk through the bush with a couple of guides with rifles and you stalk lions and you try to get close to the rhino baby (but not too close).

    You also eat a “bush breakfast” of biltong (jerky), chocolate bars, cookies and a bag of Lay’s chips. Pretty. Awesome.

    The afternoon was for exploring the neighborhood, running, working out, sponge cake and more Gone With The Wind (um, awesome book. I had no idea.)

    (Tip #8: running, or walking, is the best way to explore a new area. Especially when every house has crazy electrical fences holding in dogs who want to eat me for lunch. I never saw more vicious tiny wiener dogs than I did that day!)

     (Tip #9: Self and Shape workout cards are ridiculously helpful and portable for working out in a dorm room by yourself.)

    That night I got to go on a Sunset Game Drive.

    My reoccurring thought was “my camera is crap and how come I can’t take super amazing pictures in the dark, so unfair!” and then I realized “dude, I am on safari, I should just enjoy it and buy some postcards later.” So my pictures are crap but here are a couple. Hyena babies… and mommy…

    Here’s a game called “Spot the leopard!”…

    Crappy pictures, but you get the gist.

    After two full days of checking out the park, I had a third day just to do whatever I wanted. Living in Mozambique aka the bush, I wanted to… shop. Well, explore town is more like it. It was about eight kilometers into Hazyview, and an exceedingly pleasant hike. I then got to spend hours… hours… wandering through grocery stores and a book store (!) and just doing a whole lot of nothing. And it was absolutely wonderful.

    Bakeries make pancakes and waffles ready to eat? This was too much for me.

    I just bought the essentials—you know, gum, the South African version of gummies that you eat on long runs, crackers, and some sorely expensive dog flea shampoo that mysteriously disappeared between customs and my house. Huh…

    I killed as much time in the bookstore as I could without looking TOO suspicious. In the health section, I found a book that was called “Eat Right For Your Type.” Meaning blood type. I am A+, and I learned from the back cover that I should be a vegetarian, engage in gentle exercise such as yoga or golf, and meditate. More accurate would be, “you should do vigorous exercise that makes you totally want to die, hypes you up and then you recover by eating something greasy and choc full of meat.” That book I would have bought.

    After walking around for about 5 hours straight, I took advantage of the mini food court with a Nando’s chicken burger that I bulked up with a bowl of “seasonal vegetables” that I bought at the grocery store. (I was very proud of myself for doing this, just FYI. Healthy AND economical! Okay, yay for me, moving on.) Nando’s is a delicious Portuguese-style chicken chain that is all over South Africa, and is apparently now in the States! I actually went for the first time in London. I am hoping it makes it to Cali, but for all I know it already has. Mystery.

    This gave me some time to do some actual work (boo)… editing statements of purpose for graduate school applications. Woohoo! I feel like I’ve edited them until my eyes crossed, but wanted to give it one more shot. And then I found soft serve, which totally validated my entire trip to South Africa in the first place. How I have survived for two years without ice cream is COMPLETELY and utterly beyond me.

    After my fourth day, it was time to go. I still had a bit of a journey back to Moz and then back home, but I was reluctant yet ready to leave. Taking a trip by myself was an amazing experience and something I just really NEEDED to refresh me and psych me up for my last month and a half or so in Africa. I also learned a lot about traveling alone and how I feel about it.

    My three least favorite things about traveling alone:

    1. Not having a buddy. This should sound like a “duh…” moment but it is just really nice to have someone to talk to all the time, to exclaim with, to discuss with, to have fun with. Obviously traveling on your own is a whole different thing, but I still missed having a buddy.
    2. Logistically, one can be harder—and pricier. You would think it would be easier, but a lot of activities are 2+ people which means you could end up stranded. Or you could be filling a room with all people who know each other. Or, it could just be awkward when it is three couples and you, them all wondering what you did to end up someplace by yourself. Also, money. Cabs and food are a HECK of a lot more expensive when not shared.
    3. Busses are much better when you are sitting next to a friend and not next to a creepy man, a giggling teenage girl screaming on her cell phone, or a disaffected mother with her baby SCREAMING in your ear for eight hours and the entire bus is staring and she doesn’t care nor make an effort to stop it. Enough said.

    My three favorite things about traveling alone:

    1. Making all my own decisions. So much of traveling in a group is discussing what to do that day. And in what order to do things. And where to go next. And then where to go eat. And then where to go out. Blah, blah, blah. Traveling alone, I got to just do whatever I wanted and listen to my whims and it was awesome.
    2. A boost of confidence. It is easy to say, “sure, I’ll do that when…” when I have someone to travel with, when I have more money, when it is a good time, and so on. Taking a week long trip to a different country more or less on a whim was empowering. Especially coming back and everyone saying “You went to South Africa? With who?” and being able to smile and say, “Myself!” with no shame, was an awesome feeling.
    3. Looking at everything in a new light. Being alone for such a long time (well, at least away from colleagues, friends, roommates etc.) meant that I was doing a lot of thinking and not a lot of talking, and I really got to reflect on my surroundings and take it all in. I wasn’t able to talk it out, but in some ways it was a nice change to just observe and exist and BE.

    When all is said and done, I am so glad I went and I can’t wait til I can do it again.

    I’m off on another safari adventure this weekend, this time in Moz and with some AMAZING girls, and I’ll be back next week with some posts with substance that aren’t thirteen miles long. Have a wonderful weekend everybody.

    Peace.

    What’s the next trip you’re taking?

     

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  • 10 Health and Happiness Lessons I Learned On Safari

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    So some of you may know, I went on a safari in South Africa last week. I was taking a trip by myself for the first time, and it was AMAZING. Unfortunately it took me THIS LONG to access internet, but better late than never! (My African motto…) I have a ton I want to share with you, but first I thought I’d start with sharing some lessons I learned about health, happiness and life when I was on my safari. Here goes!

    10. Live in the Moment.

    How often do you see a zebra looking sad because they are just not sure they are living up to their full potential? How often do you see a springbok frazzled because they are just not feeling on top of things? You don’t. Animals take each moment as it comes—hot, cold, happy, sad, hungry, full, tired, energetic—and they revel in it. They don’t waste time and energy thinking of things they have no power to control.

     

    9. Water is life.

    I never saw water without animals trying to get to it. When thirst hits, they don’t run for caffeine or aspartame or alcohol. They run for water. Even if they have to go through an angry croc to get to it. It is the singular most important thing to sustain us, and they recognize this. Try drinking nothing but water for a few days straight and notice how good you feel.

    8. Boredom is a choice.

    You think staring at a computer all day is boring, how about sitting on the same spot of grass? Yet how often do animals seem bored? They are inquisitive, curious, seeking, willing to explore and play and have fun even if it means doing the same thing day after day after day. Try to see your world how they do. Blink. Refocus. See the beauty in something you didn’t see before.

     

    7. REST.

    Do you know lions only need to eat every three or four days? When they do, they eat up to 35 kilos of meat. And then they digest for the next three or four days—sleeping 20 hours PER DAY. And they need it. Listen to YOUR body. You don’t get to be King of the Jungle by sleeping five hours a night and not even sleeping well because you’re thinking of everything that must get done when you are awake. Whether its six hours or nine, prioritize rest time to make the most of those waking hours.

     

    6. Movement as Necessity.

    When antelope run across a field, they don’t call it cardio. They call it living. They take joy in it, as they were meant to move. So were we. While society may have your bottom glued to a chair for hours per day, it is your choice to be a sedentary creature—or an active one. Feel the wind in your fur, the earth give way beneath your paws. Move your body and marvel at its strength and ability to get you through. Don’t neglect it.

     

    5. Hold your head high.

    There are good days and there are bad days. Some days you’re sunning yourself on pride rock, others you’re being stalked by something big and hungry. You can’t control that. But you CAN control how you act and react. Be positive. Hold your head high. Own yourself, own your attitude. You will appear strong and confident (and not an easy dinner), and soon you’ll feel that way yourself.

     

    4. Thicken your skin.

    Sometimes sensitivity is good. Other times it is not. When mean comments are taken to heart, or when a buffalo who you thought was a friend tries to eat you (hey nothing personal, I’m just hungry). We should respect the opinions and concerns of our nearest and dearest herd members but the rest of the wild will throw negativity at us—thicken up and let it bounce off and you’ll be better for it.

     

    3. Recognize the purpose of Food.

    Second only to water in importance is food. When they are looking for food, buffaloes aren’t looking for the cheapest deal or the prettiest box or the lowest fat content. They are looking for what will sustain them, what will make them feel strong; get them through another difficult day. Sometimes the sweetest berries go uneaten—because while they may shine and attract, they are bitter, or poisonous. So they go untouched, in favor of less flashy but more fueling foods. I wish I could always do the same.

     

    2. Have a Herd.

    No man is an island. Similarly, no wildebeest should go through life all by themselves. Whether it is a shoulder to cry on, a listening ear, a hundred buddies to get you through a bad day at work or to protect you from a hungry lion, or just a friend to eat bugs off your back, we need each other. Life is hard. Why go at it alone? Have a herd. And make sure your loved ones know they are appreciated.

    And finally…

     

    1. Sometimes you just need a spot in the shade to watch the world go by.

     Not only did I have a great time on safari (which I will write more about ASAP), I also learned a lot. I hope I can just take some of these things to heart in my own life!

    What can you learn from animals?

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  • Flying Solo

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    This weekend, I am going on vacation by myself.

    I am heading down to South Africa this weekend, where I will make my way out to a town right outside Kruger Park, the biggest and most popular safari site in Africa. Being in the Peace Corps in Africa for two years means you simply MUST take advantage of a safari, and pretty much everyone here in Mozambique goes with their family when they come and visit. This meaning that here nearly two years in, I was one of the only PCVs who hadn’t been, making it pretty impossible to secure a travel partner. A couple opportunities presented themselves, but never worked out. So here I am, so close to leaving Africa, without ever seeing a lion or an elephant.

    So I am going alone.

    It’s funny, I travel often and have been on countless long trips (buses, trains, planes, cars) all by my lonesome, but there is always someone waiting for. A friend. A family member. But this time, there isn’t.

    The only person who will be at my destination is me.

    Sure, I might meet some people along the way. But if I don’t, it doesn’t mean I am not going to have a great time. I am going to read. I am going to give my final statements of purpose for graduate school one last edit. I am going to journal and pray and write and just BE.

    This is a new experience for me, and I might be lonely, or bored, at times. But I am also confident that it will be a good experience, one that faces me to spend time with myself, which can be scary or boring or just something we would rather avoid. But it’s important. If I don’t want to spend time with me, how can I expect anyone else to want to, either?

    So I’m off. Armed with my backpacking bag, a ton of snacks so I don’t blow all my money, and clothes for cold and for beach… and a very, very long book. I have no idea what to expect from this week… but I can’t wait to find out.

    Have you ever traveled alone?

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