Snapshots.

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Whenever I take a week off of blogging, it feels a bit like falling off the wagon. The farther away you slip, the harder it seems to be to jump back on. I truly love blogging, though I think I’ve been a little frustrated by it lately because I know what it could be if I had a physical, mental, and emotional energy to put into it that I just don’t have right now. And I’m not talking about a huge following or money making or any such things—I’m talking about a place that’s my creative outlet, where I can write and express and create and share.

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It’ll get there someday. I’m getting better at recognizing that you can’t have it all. I don’t mean that in a depressing way, but rather matter of factly—I could blog every day, but what would give? Some tradeoffs aren’t worth it.

I feel like I’ve been delaying on posting lately because there’s a lot of stuff in the works—both on paper and in my mind. There are some pieces I’m working on, a bit different than the normal posts of “look what I ate” and “look where I went running” and “hooray, more pictures of San Francisco.” There are some more raw and real topics I want to discuss, namely some posts about vegetarianism and identity and other REAL things.

The problem is that writing about real things is harder. I actually have the desire to *gasp* proofread, it’s not quite as snip-snap as throwing up a bunch of pictures. Though that doesn’t mean there weren’t any other pieces from this week that I didn’t want to share on the blog, hence this post and its title, Snapshots. Referring not as much to the obviously-Instagramed photos (someone teach me how to take quality photos, please!) but to the snippets of life that often miss the blog and that I am including here.

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This Sunday I got to spend a lovely afternoon at a BBQ in the Presidio celebrating the birthday of one of my oldest friends, Tiff. (Two photos above jokingly titled “Indeed” and “Sun vs. Cake,” respectively.) Sunday was a gorgeous day. I complain about SF weather as do most, but there’s definitely something to be said for just how special the rare heavenly days are in this city. I woke up and went on a stroll through Cole Valley. I biked to the Presidio, through Golden Gate Park which was positively overflowing with people out enjoying the weather as was I. When I got home, I even left again, for a run. I am meant to be outdoors. That’s where I am recharged, invigorated. It’s wonderful when the weather cooperates.

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This weekend also brought the celebration of another birthday for another close T-named girlfriend in SF, Talia (of book club and jam making fame here on P&P). She hosted a Murder Mystery party which was definitely something to experience! It’s basically Clue in real life.

At this party I had to accept a truth I’ve long known: I am a terrible actress. My creative and artsy side is exemplified in two things: writing and dance. There, when my heart is in it, I shine. Acting? Oh my gosh. I am a cringe-fest waiting to happen. But luckily, you don’t need to be able to pull off a convincing fake murder to have fun.

 

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It’s not a weekend without a long run. This weekend I went out for an attempted 15 which settled as a 13.1 nice half-marathon distance. I am currently not in training for anything which is both good and bad. Good because I want running to be fun, bad because I wonder what the point is. I am going to make it a point to run at least 13.1 miles every weekend if not longer. But yet, the long-run runner’s-high feeling that I love so much, I have been chasing lately. In October I’ve done two half-marathons that were very unique experiences from one another, and it’s been a while since I embarked on a solo three-hour run. I think I need to make some time for that… some time to get out and not care about pace or not look at a stupid watch every five seconds. For me, running is supposed to be about peace and happiness. It hurts, often, that’s a given. but I feel like in many ways I am trying to get my groove back. I think I need some new routes, some new tunes, some new views and attitudes. Need to re-evaluate if I’ll race between now and Big Sur.

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I’m continuing to search for culinary delights in SOMA to break up my workday and last week I got doubly lucky with Ritch Street coming in strong for the win. (Left: waffle and fruit salad—as opposed to fried chicken—at Farmer Brown’s Little Skillet; right: spinach, pomegranate, mango, and sunflower seed salad at Darwin Café). Since I am now officially a food blogger thanks to Foodbuzz (as well as a running blogger, a travel blogger, a SF blogger, a life blogger…) I need to be featuring some more of these dishes. No problem on my end!

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I have no idea what to be or what to do for Halloween. See, I haven’t celebrated it in years. YEARS. As in, I could not actually tell you the last time I dressed up in costume for this holiday. (Wearing a bandana on my head and going to a fraternity party freshman year of college does not count.) However, I have kind of dropped the ball on this one in terms of preparation so if it means I just go people watch while eating candy corn, so be it. Though hopefully I can tap the creative juices that exist down there somewhere to be able to enjoy this truly strange and ridiculous celebration. Any ideas or suggestions are very much appreciated.

 

I recognize that this is off the map, but I just felt like talking into my little space on the internet. Now that I’ve gotten this out of my system, we will soon return to our regularly scheduled programming when time allows. Though if we have a few more gorgeous days, it might have to wait.

Courtney

What’s a snapshot from your life right now?

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  • Postcards From America: New York City From an iPhone

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    Part 3 of a series following Portland and New Hampshire following a 7 or 8 state (I can’t remember) trip I took the last two weeks. I am very behind on both blogging and comments as I am still jetlagged and exhausted but bear with me as I catch up. : )

    I figured I’d do a mostly wordless post with some scenes from my short stint in New York City. Kentucky, North Carolina, and Boston may be ignored as I somehow ended up with about five useable pictures. What are you going to do?

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    I can no longer indulge in the best street-card food—hot dogs—but I’ll settle for a soft pretzel the size of my face for a buck, please.

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    Ever since I lived in New York when I was younger, the black and white cookie has remained one of my favorite desserts. I like the white part a bajillion times better than the black, but this time upon finding out that some places do “all black” or “all white” cookies, I had to stick to the classic. Just felt wrong.

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    Had to see my favorite show, Rent, off-broadway while I was in town… which meant I had to buy a new $18 dress to wear.

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    99 cent pizza at midnight should probably be illegal.

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    (That’s my “I’m happy because I ran 4 miles quicker than 8:30 pace which is really good for me and did I mention I’m sweating and dehydrated and only ate street food the day before and man I need a bagel” face.)

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    I do love New York. I feel like I’ve spent so much time in the city that it feels comfortable and I don’t feel pressured to do any particular activities, but I appreciate how unique it is compared to every other city in America. I almost had a heart attack when I was wandering through Hell’s Kitchen at 11:30PM looking for dinner and there were TONS of places that were open—all I can get after 9PM in my SF neighborhood is booze or junk food! So cool. I feel a little claustrophobic in NYC—I need my green space and quiet neighborhood—BUT I do love to visit.

    TIme to get some SLEEP and get caught up on life. New updates coming soon.

    Night!

    Ever been to NYC? What are your favorite parts about the city?

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  • Happy July and the Cape Town Pictures Continue!

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    It’s July! Happy July!

    First of all, I just want to tell the like-minded soul who recently reached my blog by searching “how many calories in licking leftover icing,” to not worry. There are no calories in icing because it is made of love.

    Anyways.

    I am going to continue on with my Cape Town posts but since it is the beginning of another month it always seems to spurn some reflection for me (and across the blog world). May was a month of goals—this was one of my first “real” blog posts! But the stress of that month (not because I had set goals) really got to me and in June I declared I was just going to let it go. Now it’s July. HOW IS IT JULY ALREADY??

    This is going to be a crazy month for me. Also a comparably cold one, because we are in the depths of winter (aka daytime temps are down to the mid-seventies, but hey, that cold shower BITES!).

    At work, I have my second-to-last trimester planning (at which I conduct activities) and I NEED to put it 110% to make sure that the work I do is not only being executed well NOW, but that there will be continuation after I leave in November. This is stressing me out the most, realizing that I am leaving SO soon and I don’t want to look back and feel like I failed or that I didn’t put in enough. I want to feel like I have contributed in a meaningful and lasting way here.

    In terms of health, I need to get serious. I had been up until mid-May, where stress got the best of me and then continued through two vacations. I feel sloppy and not up to form, and really need to take this month to get back to where I should be and make smarter decisions. Registering for my marathon on July 15th should hopefully provide some more motivation… even though it’s not until May 1st!

    In terms of the future, this is the month that the ball gets rolling on graduate school and scholarship applications (I need to start early because I have to have them all done by October!). That can also be a source of stress so I just need to concentrate on following my heart and not getting too caught up in the future’s uncertainties.

    Personally, I need to reconnect with myself. I feel like I have lost sight of a lot of what is important: my relationship with God, the importance of constantly outpouring love not only to others but also to myself. If I am to get through these last four (four!!!) months of Peace Corps successfully, it needs to start on the inside.

    Phew. Let’s see how it goes!

    SO, on to my next Cape Town update. I ventured out on the morning of our first “real” day in the city to explore it more. Our hostel, on Long Street, really was the ideal jumping-off point to explore basically everywhere you would want to go.

    I woke up in the morning, ready for a run. Okay, I love to exercise but am definitely not one of those at-all-costs people, and the night before margaritas and freezing cold (for me) made it hard, but the fact that I had basically been sitting for the past 72 hours made me anxious for a run. And plus, I could explore the city!

    Sea Point is beautiful, and there is a PARK! Where people WALK and RUN! Lots of people!!! This does not exist in Mozambique, and it was SO amazing to go for a run and not get stared at or followed, and not have to run in ankle-deep sand.

    Later we did some more exploring—there is actually a good amount of art around the city, which I loved! And flags were everywhere.

    What made me even more excited were the RECYCLING BINS and the FREE DRINKING WATER stations that were absolutely everywhere! Mozambique doesn’t recycle and it pains me every time I throw away cans and plastic bottles… it felt SO good to be able to recycle.

    Also, to cut down on more plastic waste from people buying bottled water, they had these faucets all over the place for free drinking water! I just carried a bottle and refilled it everywhere. Apparently South Africa´s tap water is the third cleanest in the world?? WHO KNEW?? You can´t drink the water in Moz, and this might have been one of our greatest luxuries on the trip. Unlimited water! Without boiling or filtering! Seriously, I almost died of happiness every time I refilled my water bottle in the sink in the hostel kitchen. It was that exciting to me.

    As we were walking we stopped into various places along the way (exploring), including a wine shop that basically forced us with kindness into a tasting. Wine tasting before noon is okay, right?

    Of course, I made us run into a gourmet-looking supermarket where we proceeded to wander aisles, dumbfounded (or maybe that was just me) where they had REAL THINGS! I saw quinoa! And tons of different veggies! And hummus! And GREEK YOGURT! These things do not exist in my life and for a moment I felt like I was in the real world… which felt weird in itself. I live in a hut. I do not eat greek yogurt with honey. This is just how life is.

    We headed over to V&A Waterfront which is a HUGE mall/shopping area and a TON of fancy restaurants right on the water. Basically it is an overpriced tourist trap, but for good reason. It is a great place to hang out and people-watch and eat.

    The mall is full of crazy stores, from names you might recognize (Guess, Gucci, Louis Vuitton) to other more interesting shops such as this designer clothes botique, Marlboro Originals. Yup…

    Basically there is a huge outdoor area as well as a ginormous mall inside, where, as the sign requests, people don´t blow vuvuzelas. Totally did NOT work to keep any order, but hey, it´s the World Cup.

    Colin wanted a beer, so we stopped in the first place we saw, Mitchell’s Waterfront Brewery, which my friend Nick informed me was on the list of Top 150 Places in the World to Drink a Beer. I didn’t know this at the time, but when in Rome…

    …Order the beer sampler.

    I tasted each one. Honestly nothing was too exciting to me, but hey, its beer! Pretty decent but nothing I will be writing home about. It was just fun though.

    Roommate got the fish and chips which kind of looked amazing. Wait for me to get to MY fish and chips experience. That one will send you healthy-living types running for the door!

    Next stop was the FIFA store, where Colin and Sarah got suited up in team USA gear (a jacket and jersey, respectively). I envied their awesomeness but was content to check out the vuvuzelas, which I am sure you heard in the background if you watched any WC games. Most annoying invention ever. It can seriously make you go deaf. But of course now I wish I brought one back as a souvenir…

    That first night was full of some beers, some burgers (mine was falafel), and a 3:30AM snack as I stumbled home. (Completely sober, mind you… stumbling due to being up 6 hours past my bedtime and having spent the last five hours on my feet dancing and singing along to a live band… unhealthy food was necessary. Because hey, I was on vaycay…as you can tell, I spent a decent amount of time on this trip making excuses!)

    I have a muffin addiction. This will be discussed in upcoming entries as you see variations on this picture in pretty much every post.

    Okay, I know this was not the most exciting update but I had to get the ball rolling! Upcoming World Cup posts will be about climbing a mountain, playing with penguins, driving to the southern tip of Africa, going wine tasting, and of course, the foodie tour of cape town. Don´t worry, it´s coming. I take no responsibility if anyone gains five pounds by simply looking at the pictures : )

    Have a WONDERFUL day everybody!

    What does July hold for you?

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  • Sunday Musings and Swazi Scenery!

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    I will open with this trenchant observation: don’t get too close to a pack of zebras. No matter how cute they may appear.

    Happy Sunday everybody! It has been five days since I last posted due to extremely slow internet and a ton of Swazi pictures I have been trying to upload, without luck for many of them. I think I have about four posts worth of stuff so I am going to make this first post just a bunch of pictures from the nature reserve that I was staying in. The posts about my travels, eats, and adventures will come later… until then, you’re stuck with pictures of animals and trees : )

    We were staying at a hostel/backpackers located right in Milwane Nature Reserve, which is a protected park. Every day I took the opportunity to go for a walk or go running through the surrounding areas and just be blown away by the beauty surrounding me in every direction! And the QUIET. I think we often do not have enough real “quiet” in our lives, there’s always SOMETHING. And in Milwane, I got to breathe, listen to the sounds of nature, the monkeys calling, the birds chirping. It was really wonderful.

    I saw a ton of animals including impala, springbok, zebras, warthogs, monkeys, and a variety of other species I couldn’t name! Unfortunately there aren’t lions or giraffes in the park where I was, but perhaps that was better, seeing as I was out running alone in the middle of nowhere at 6AM, which is not the ideal time to bump into a lion in its natural habitat. Next time…

    I think that these runs may have been the best that I have ever been on. Definitely not from an exercise point of view, seeing as I was going at a snail’s pace attempting to take in the world around me slash stopping every three minutes to take a picture of something. But that was what I needed to do here. I am in Swaziland for the weekend, for goodness’ sake, and I am going running through a nature park. THIS. IS. AWESOME. (I am pretty sure that was what I was repeating to myself the entire time.)

    I don’t know if I can ever go back to a zoo after living here. (Okay, that’s probably a lie… the San Diego ZOO and wild animal park are pretty sweet.) But it’s funny how normal it is to see these animals on the road in front of me (that warthog in a picture below got in the way when I was running and we stopped and stared at each other for a few long minutes. Kind of cute if you stare at it for a while… a LONG while…) and I cannot imagine how weird and wrong it would feel to see them in captivity again. But I digress.

    I loved this sign too. Wildlife has the right of way! AMEN. In Africa most places (okay, well at least in Mozambique), people don’t even have the right of way. Ever. I do not know how many times I have nearly been killed by cars. And I could mention how often this does indeed happen, but this post does not feel like the appropriate time or place. Anyway, this reserve was definitely a welcome respite from the day to day hectic-ness (is there a word??) of life in cities. I could probably stay in a hut here for a few weeks and be utterly content.

    I don’t know if you can tell what this creature is on the fence, but it is indeed a monkey. These are actually one of the few interesting creatures I have run into in Moz, so while this sighting was not anything super out of the ordinary, it was really fun to watch these two monkeys fight over some nonexistent object. really reminded me of young children bickering. I kind of love monkeys… from a safe distance and not in my house. Although if one did indeed turn up in my house, that would make for a pretty great blog post.

    I really fell in love with Swaziland over this weekend. If anyone is planning a trip to Southern Africa (South Africa, Mozambique, Botswana…) a stop in Swaziland is a must! It is a seemingly random country, tiny and tucked in between several more notable nations, and known for things like a king who continually adds new wives to his harem and one of the highest rates of HIV in the world (at one time the highest). But it is much more than that…. it is a country full of charm, tradition, and kindness. The people were so friendly, many people are educated and most speak English (the most commonly spoken language is SiSwati, the native tongue, but being a British colony, English is the other official language). The transport is easy, the roads are nice, and you can get real products at the stores. It is civilization! Although that kind of becomes a joke for those of us who live in Mozambique, because “civilization” apparently refers to anywhere BUT Mozambique. A sad joke, but the reality is that Mozambique is significantly less than developed than its surrounding neighbors, meaning that simply crossing over the border and stepping onto a bus or into a store can actually be a bit of a culture shock.

    Today is June 6th. Well into the month of June, and most bloggers would admit that they had missed the opportunity to do any requisite musings on the end of one month and the beginning of another. But I declare that the rules do not apply to me so need to take a second here to do do.

    One of the first “real” posts I made here on P&P was A New Month, setting some goals for the month of May. I think it was at this moment that I started really commenting on other blogs and trying to become a part of the blog community, so in a way, this is my one month anniversary of being a real blogger. : ) Okay I totally do not feel like a real blogger yet, but hopefully I will get there some day.

    Anyway, I decided to make several goals for the month of May and post them on the blog to make myself accountable–really just to myself because at the time I did not believe that anyone would actually ever be reading this, but accountable just the same. So I think my conscience demands at least looking back for a moment to see how I did on my goals or what I said I was planning to do…

    Here we have my goal updates accompanied by a picture of snares collected in the national park. AKA, this is what is waiting for me if I fail to complete things I say I will do. Haha. Not quite.

    So what were the things I said I would do every day?

    Floss every day: MAJOR FAIL. Sorry if that is TMI… but this was my most important goal really, because it needs to be a “life change,” but I didn’t do so well. I vow again to make this a daily part of my routine!

    Blogging, ten posts: check! I actually did pretty well with posting this month, much better than I expected, and I loved all the comments and feedback I got from you guys! THANKS! June is setting up to be a blogger fail, but you make the most of what you are working with, I suppose. Out of country Africa backpacker blogging can be a bit of a challenge…

    Running, ten times: check. I did my runs and I succeeded with a couple of long ones over two hours. Holla! Must continue to make running a well integrated part of my life. I think *fingers crossed* that I have finally trained through my runner’s knee but, as always, that remains to be seen. Here’s hoping!

    Trainings at work: check! I finally posted about what I do normally at my job here in Moz, and as I states in my goals, I was able to execute, working in collaboration with colleagues, three different trainings, culminating in a training of Agentes de Mudanca (agents of social change) in which we “capacitized” people who are notable leaders in their communities to speak out on issues of gender equality, women’s empowerment, strengthening the family economy, and being knowledgeable about rights in regards to inheritances and family laws. It was really cool and I cannot wait to see what kind of lasting change we see in their communities! Again, here’s hoping!

    Food/baking: I did do a few fun baking experiments this month, but didn’t get my English muffins baked. BOO. It was a bit hard because I had visitors OR was working every weekend which made “Weekend Baking” a bit more difficult than expected. But that’s okay! Plenty of time!

    Grad school list: check. Kind of. I am definitely applying to graduate school in the fall (well, it’s the spring for me) and I think I know more or less where I am going to apply to now. Sucessos! Now I need to get started on the REAL work… but I have a few months, so it should be plenty of time.

    And lastly, I DID manage to fight my way through Great Expectations (check!) but I think I belaboured it for so long that I didn’t really enjoy it to the extent that I should have… I will file it away under the “reread” category. One chapter left of Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius. That counts, right? I both love Dave Eggers and want to throttle him. Next book I think will be American Wife by Curtis Sittenfeld.

    So overall I think I did pretty well. But definitely room for improvement.

    June is shaping up to be a really crazy month as I did originally expect. Coming back from Swaziland, med stuff in Maputo, catch-up at work. Next week is my only real full week of work this month and I am taking Wednesday off because it is my BIRTHDAY! I am turning 24 and am going to make it MY day. This is one of my mom’s traditions and one I would like to start as well…. I worked on my birthday last year and the whole time I was thinking, “WHY. AM. I. HERE.” I mean, I know it is a bit entitled and optimistic to think that I am never going to work on my birthday EVER, but if you can take it off and enjoy it however YOU want to, why the heck not? I am very much looking forward to Wednesday. No parties, no hoopla, no nothing. Probably just a nice run, some pancakes, a lunch out at a restaurant in town and some time spent contemplating my life and what I want my 24th year to look like. And while that may be boring, it is all I need right now.

    After that, I leave around the 15th to Cape Town (three days of overland travel there–yay!) for the flipping WORLD CUP. I still can NOT believe I am going! I am trying to decide if I should try to blog from there or not. I think it would be a great opportunity to be blogging from there, to be able to update friends and family and readers about the craziness and amazingness that the trip will surely be. But, I also don’t want to be in South Africa (dangerous) worrying about losing my laptop (quite possible) or spending hours on the internet when, come on, I’m at the world cup! So that is on my mind right now. Even going to Swazi for a long weekend, I was off the internet for bout six days and of course I am STILL not caught up yet (and I don’t even want to talk about my google reader)! But… blogs and emails are always going to be there so I think I might have to peace out from the interwebs for some time while I am living it up in South Africa. Once in a lifetime opportunity! CAN’T. WAIT. I cannot even imagine how much fun I am going to have…

    With all that being said, my June goal is to GET OVER IT. Okay, that sounds a bit silly. But in May, I found myself really bogged down and stressed out, for a number of different reasons, and nothing that really merits a discussion here. But I noticed myself being stressed out, anxious, emotional, and it manifesting itself in negative ways–overeating, harping on unimportant things, negative trains of thought and outlooks towards life. This isn’t me. I know this. So why have I let myself get caught up in that downward spiral?

    Some things are not important.

    I have gotten off track. Way too much of my time in the last few weeks has been spent thinking about unimportant and negative things. I cannot get that time back, but I can choose to turn it around. Being here is such a mind game sometimes, just getting from one day to the next. It is so easy to think about what I am missing out on THERE, which makes me miss the beauty that I have HERE. I do love Mozambique and my experience, and sometimes it feels like you need to be all warm-fuzzy about things because people are saying things like “you’re so brave” and “I could never do that” and other things that I do not believe at all, but yet it feels like you have to live up to some ideal, some silent suffering. But there is no glory in that and life, no matter where we are in the world or where we are in our lives, is hard sometimes! That is reality and there is no reason to hide from it. But rather, I just need to re evaluate how I REACT to it, and get back on track with the person I know myself to be: positive, full of life and excited for the day ahead.

    June, I’m not worrying about stress or uncertainty or unanswered questions or five extra pounds. I’m just living. I am living in every moment, being more aware of the world around me, waking up wondering how I can make the world a better place for others to be in. I need to get back to where I belong. Everything changes now. : )

    No measurable goals, no pressure on myself or on anybody else. Just being. Just existing, figuring out more about who I am and what it is that I want, what I am searching for. And a whole lot of fun along the way. Once again… here’s hoping.

    Choose hope… always choose hope! If I learn one thing in my life, I hope that that would be it.

    Now I will leave you with some more pretty pictures from Swaziland. Happy Sunday, everybody!!!


    Question: Have you ever felt yourself getting “off track” in some area of your life? How did you realize it? What do you do to turn it around?

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  • Island Paradise

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    The weekend. A time for relaxation and recharging. Sometimes I am doing errands that I don’t have time for (or more accurately, don’t feel like doing) during the week, such as running around the market, going to the bank, and washing my underwear in a bucket. Glamorous. But sometimes, I get lucky.

    We thought that last weekend’s sand dune adventure was our last outing with our friends and neighbors before they return to Austria, but luckily for all, today blew the dunes out of the water. Our friends wanted to charter a boat to take us out to Paradise Island, a tiny, uninhabited island at the tip of the indescribably beautiful Bazaruto Archipelago a handful of kilometers off-shore. Sign me up!

    The Archipelago is a string of just a few islands, all surrounded by breathtaking coral reefs full of thousands of tropical fish. People come from many places to SCUBA dive, snorkel, and just bask in the beauty of the place. There are a number of lodges on some of the islands, though to say they are out of reach for “normal” people is an understatement: Let’s say $700 per night per person, plus the gourmet meals, plus the helicopter transfer to the islands! Ridiculous. There used to be a campsite on one of the islands but the lodges pushed it out of business (smart idea for them), making overnight trips on the islands nearly unattainable. (However, apparently these places hover at about 60% capacity or more year-round. I would like to meet these people, but they don’t interact with us mainland folk. Except for Richard Gere, who comes every year and does some work with my organization as well. No big deal.) Despite this, it is really easy and markedly cheaper to go on day trips to snorkel or dive, or just passear on the island. And it is worth every penny.

    We left a little before 8AM up to Inhassoro, another beach town about an hour north where several of my Peace Corps colleagues live. Upon arriving, we met up with Camille (who is staying in Inhassoro for two weeks for a design seminar with some of the local artisans that my project is working with) and the South African designer who is conducting the seminar. While waiting for the marinheiros to bring the boat over, we asked the restaurant if they had frozen drinks. (What? 8:45AM on a Sunday seemed like a really good time to check if the Mozambican restaurant had piña coladas… doesn’t hurt to ask right? They didn’t. Sad face.)

    At Complexo Seta... without piña coladas.

    Then it was time to climb into the boat, throwing all our stuff up for the four marinheiros to stow away in the bottom of the dhow. A dhow is a big wooden boat of Arab descent that has stuck around Mozambique for centuries. (Mozambique, particularly the northern part of the country, is heavily influenced by Arab and Muslim culture, dating back to the days when prominent Arab trade routes visited the coast.)

    We came with a pretty ridiculous amount of stuff for nine people! Plus the snorkeling gear and we had a full ship. Time to go!

    Packing light!

    Helga en route, classy as always.

    Going out to the island was a pleasant hour or so with the onboard motor (with the currents, you motor out—unless you want to spend six hours or so getting out there—and then sail back, if the wind cooperates). While I was heavily sun-protected, I did want to get rid of my pretty horrid flip-flop tan. Somehow, those one-inch strips on both feet managed to stay just as white, while my calves and sunscreen got burned something fierce. Ow! I was wearing SPF 70! I am getting a skin cancer screening done the week I get back from Africa; this tropical sun thing every day is ridiculous.

    here we are!

    Upon arriving at Ilha Santa Carolina, the real fun began. (The island has two names, Paradise and Santa Carolina, and how the Mozambicans seem to work out this confusion is to call it Ilha Santa Carolina, or much less frequently Ilha do Paraiso, but always refer to it as Paradise Island in English. The name is well-deserved). The marinheiros informed us that it was low tide so we couldn’t bring the boat in, but that we could snorkel from the boat. The anchor was dropped just a few meters from the reef, clothes were shed, sunscreen was reapplied, flippers and masks were awkwardly donned, and into the water we went!

    you get the idea.

    I have no pictures due to the lack of an expensive underwater camera, and it pains me to say that words can not do this experience justice. Sigh. Must buy said expensive underwater camera.

    Imagine if you were swimming through the reefs in Finding Nemo. Now make it doubly awesome. And that’s what we got.

    The next hour was spent floating over coral of every shape and size and color imaginable, and that would have been sufficient for me! The brain coral, waving anemones, pink florets, highlighter color fronds flapping in the water… yeah, I will stop there. Simply beautiful.

    Coming to shore, we set up camp. And by camp, I mean…

    rough life.

    All that snorkeling had made me tired and hungry, so we lounged on the beach a bit, and I ate my cute little lunch of a ham/avo/egg sandwich, apple, trail mix and carrot cake cupcake to share.

    love packed lunches. even better when eaten off of frisbees.

    And then began our adventure for the day: walking the perimeter of the island! It is pretty small, so we guessed it would take us about an hour and a half, but really had no idea what we were getting into. But the experience, and the views, were beautiful.

    Finally hitting the “back side” of the island, we got to explore some derelict hotels and buildings (or what was left of them) that were built in the 1960s. Soon thereafter, Mozambique entered several decades of war, revolutionary followed by civil (until the mid 1990s), and then the cyclone that wiped out this whole area in 2007 didn´t help much either. The result: a somewhat spooky, yet eerily calm setting.

    The walk through the desolate, rocky side was fun (and at sometimes perilous) but we were pretty excited to finally spot the beach again! Despite the sunscreen and the clothes, my pasty-paleness was crying for shade.

    our boat, from afar.

    After that walk, there was just enough time to cool off in the ocean (badly needed) and then sail home! Not a bad way to spend the Sunday. It´s crazy to think that these paradises… nearly untouched beauty, teeming with natural life and utter, pervading calmness, are so close (an hour boat ride) but yet so far (logistics, getting the time to do something like this, etc.) It really makes me wonder how much beauty is right under our noses, but that we miss out on because of life´s little inconveniences. But that´s another story. All that matters is that we occasionally get opportunities like these to experience it.

    Paradise Island, I hope to see you again soon.

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  • An Afternoon on the Dunes

    Probably my proudest moment.

    A couple weekends ago (I had several runs with bad luck trying to publish this post!), Camille, Sarah and I had plans to spend at least part of the day with my boss´s family (who live in the same compound with us). They have been a big part of our Mozambican lives for the past year, and are leaving to head back to their home country (Austria) this month. Wanting to make sure to spend some quality time before we left, we (Camille) cooked a delicious lunch of pesto penne pasta and bruchetta and Sarah made oatmeal raisin cookies (PC recipe, simple and delicious, will post). I contributed a whole lot of emotional support.

    With fresh basil from the garden... local food!

    Pesto Pronto!

    These disappeared. I have no idea where to, nor was I in any way responsible.

    We enjoyed lunch at their house and then headed out on a Sunday afternoon adventure: the sand dunes. Everyone had been before besides Sarah and me, and judging from the excitement of the children (2 and 5 years old), this was definitely not an adventure to be missed!

    part of the bairro SEED family!

    Another VERY important member of the family: my/our neurotic dog, Simba!

    Simba is confused as to why all the clothes hanging on the line today have shrunk!

    The seven of us piled into the family car and drove north on a sandy road about 20 minutes out of town. It was a bit bumpy in the back with the jerry cans and water jugs but we kept it classy and didn’t throw up. Success!

    Camille keeping it classy in the back.

    Upon arriving, I was told by one of the children that “shoes aren’t necessary,” but not knowing any better headed out with my bag (including my ridiculously heavy water bottle) and sandals, only to walk through the brush and be faced with one of the steepest sandy hills I have ever seen. Pictures do not do it justice. This baby was steep! I waited to make sure the rest made it up successfully so I could take their pictures…

    Seriously, so steep. You have no idea.

    And then made my own elegant ascent.

    Probably my proudest moment.

    Upon entering the dune area, I felt like I was transported into a different world. This place was amazing! Sand, sun, and red “rock” formations that were really just somewhat-hardened sand and would collapse when you stepped in the right place. Caution was key : ) Despite the verifiable sandstorm going on up there, we managed to take quite a few pictures… I hope my camera survived the onslaught. So far, so good.

    sarah, myself and camille

    Camille and Andreas behooved me to head out to this little point. My tiny climb initially reminded me of my rock climbing days out in Bishop or Yosemite, clamoring to find any small hold. The main difference is that those rocks (normally) didn’t crumble under your touch! I was a little scared of this whole thing collapsing and sweeping me away in a sandy avalanche, but luckily I survived, with the dorky pictures to prove it. : )

    After exploring for a while we made it down to the beach. It is moments like this afternoon where I cannot believe that I LIVE here. When you are constantly surrounded by evidence of God´s incredible grace and beauty, who can complain?! Okay, I can, and I will, but still… communing with nature really does something for inner peace, no matter what your religious beliefs may be.

    It was a wonderful day, and I will remember it fondly as one chapter of our life here closes with the leaving of our friends.

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